https://rswasserboxer.com/R1200RSforum/ Fri, 22 May 2026 10:34:34 +0000 MyBB https://rswasserboxer.com/R1200RSforum/thread-1283.html Mon, 14 Jul 2025 10:54:37 -0500 BobAin'tStoppin']]> https://rswasserboxer.com/R1200RSforum/thread-1283.html
I just looked up the parts fiche and see that the plastic part isn't shown    Maybe it comes with the rubber?  Anybody able to provide info?]]>
I just looked up the parts fiche and see that the plastic part isn't shown    Maybe it comes with the rubber?  Anybody able to provide info?]]> https://rswasserboxer.com/R1200RSforum/thread-1082.html Tue, 05 Mar 2024 09:28:47 -0600 Luma46]]> https://rswasserboxer.com/R1200RSforum/thread-1082.html https://rswasserboxer.com/R1200RSforum/thread-1041.html Fri, 22 Dec 2023 22:10:14 -0600 MHN-RS]]> https://rswasserboxer.com/R1200RSforum/thread-1041.html https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php...ost1317014

Grumpy, if cross-posting is not allowed here, please delete this thread!]]> https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php...ost1317014

Grumpy, if cross-posting is not allowed here, please delete this thread!]]> https://rswasserboxer.com/R1200RSforum/thread-1021.html Thu, 23 Nov 2023 04:45:58 -0600 MHN-RS]]> https://rswasserboxer.com/R1200RSforum/thread-1021.html

  IMG_1184.jpeg (Size: 455.96 KB / Downloads: 76) ]]>

  IMG_1184.jpeg (Size: 455.96 KB / Downloads: 76) ]]> https://rswasserboxer.com/R1200RSforum/thread-1018.html Wed, 22 Nov 2023 19:55:20 -0600 MHN-RS]]> https://rswasserboxer.com/R1200RSforum/thread-1018.html
I removed the clutch lever and found that the plunger that pushes the master cylinder piston is threaded into a bushing, and held by a set screw.  The plunger took a bit of a yank to pull out of its rubber boot, but it popped free without issue.


  IMG_1168.jpeg (Size: 411.26 KB / Downloads: 77)

  IMG_1170.jpeg (Size: 466.06 KB / Downloads: 77)

Note that the set screw is held by a lot of red thread locker.  It requires a commensurate amount of care in removing, or the small Torx will strip out (T15, if memory serves; maybe T10).  In theory, a bit of heat might help, but there's a change of damaging the pivoting lever insert's material.  I avoided heat by using multiple very slow loosen/reverse cycles until the set screw was finally free.

Note also that both my clutch and brake lever set screws were chock-full of red thread locker.  This material must be *thoroughly* scraped out (a challenge, given how small the tiny Torx hole is) to have a prayer of getting the Torx bit sufficiently engaged with the hole to not cam or strip out. 


  IMG_1170 (1).jpeg (Size: 188 KB / Downloads: 77)

Lastly, however much the plunger depth is adjusted before retightening the set screw, the plunger cannot be adjusted too far:  when the clutch lever is released, the two micro switches at the end of the lever moment (fully out position) must be reliably triggered.]]>
I removed the clutch lever and found that the plunger that pushes the master cylinder piston is threaded into a bushing, and held by a set screw.  The plunger took a bit of a yank to pull out of its rubber boot, but it popped free without issue.


  IMG_1168.jpeg (Size: 411.26 KB / Downloads: 77)

  IMG_1170.jpeg (Size: 466.06 KB / Downloads: 77)

Note that the set screw is held by a lot of red thread locker.  It requires a commensurate amount of care in removing, or the small Torx will strip out (T15, if memory serves; maybe T10).  In theory, a bit of heat might help, but there's a change of damaging the pivoting lever insert's material.  I avoided heat by using multiple very slow loosen/reverse cycles until the set screw was finally free.

Note also that both my clutch and brake lever set screws were chock-full of red thread locker.  This material must be *thoroughly* scraped out (a challenge, given how small the tiny Torx hole is) to have a prayer of getting the Torx bit sufficiently engaged with the hole to not cam or strip out. 


  IMG_1170 (1).jpeg (Size: 188 KB / Downloads: 77)

Lastly, however much the plunger depth is adjusted before retightening the set screw, the plunger cannot be adjusted too far:  when the clutch lever is released, the two micro switches at the end of the lever moment (fully out position) must be reliably triggered.]]> https://rswasserboxer.com/R1200RSforum/thread-1017.html Wed, 22 Nov 2023 18:15:23 -0600 MHN-RS]]> https://rswasserboxer.com/R1200RSforum/thread-1017.html
After hearing the pathetic horn on my 2023 RS, I knew it would be completely ineffective in getting a cellphone-addled cage driver to pay attention.  After quite a bit of searching, I chose the Denali SoundBomb Split horn.  The standard SoundBomb was too big to fit on the bike, and the SoundBomb Mini wasn't loud enough to satisfy me.  The split of the compressor and horn body gives more flexibility.

The attached pictures show:

Where the compressor is mounted.  It is strapped to a vertical frame tube, and located adjacent to a wiring harness I have going to a HEX ezCan in the rear.  


  IMG_1172.jpeg (Size: 426 KB / Downloads: 140)

The air hose goes up and over the top of the radiator.


  IMG_1173.jpeg (Size: 409.44 KB / Downloads: 140)

The horn body is mounted to the left inner fender, with a fender washer on the back (outer) side of the panel.  


  IMG_1176.jpeg (Size: 417.8 KB / Downloads: 140)

The horn is positioned so that the fork clears with at least a 1/4" to spare.  Because it is an upside-down fork, the outer tube never moves up/down, so the horn will never interfere with the fork leg. 


  IMG_1180.jpeg (Size: 412.81 KB / Downloads: 140)

Two more pictures to follow ...]]>
After hearing the pathetic horn on my 2023 RS, I knew it would be completely ineffective in getting a cellphone-addled cage driver to pay attention.  After quite a bit of searching, I chose the Denali SoundBomb Split horn.  The standard SoundBomb was too big to fit on the bike, and the SoundBomb Mini wasn't loud enough to satisfy me.  The split of the compressor and horn body gives more flexibility.

The attached pictures show:

Where the compressor is mounted.  It is strapped to a vertical frame tube, and located adjacent to a wiring harness I have going to a HEX ezCan in the rear.  


  IMG_1172.jpeg (Size: 426 KB / Downloads: 140)

The air hose goes up and over the top of the radiator.


  IMG_1173.jpeg (Size: 409.44 KB / Downloads: 140)

The horn body is mounted to the left inner fender, with a fender washer on the back (outer) side of the panel.  


  IMG_1176.jpeg (Size: 417.8 KB / Downloads: 140)

The horn is positioned so that the fork clears with at least a 1/4" to spare.  Because it is an upside-down fork, the outer tube never moves up/down, so the horn will never interfere with the fork leg. 


  IMG_1180.jpeg (Size: 412.81 KB / Downloads: 140)

Two more pictures to follow ...]]> https://rswasserboxer.com/R1200RSforum/thread-966.html Wed, 26 Jul 2023 05:42:01 -0500 dragontamer]]> https://rswasserboxer.com/R1200RSforum/thread-966.html https://rswasserboxer.com/R1200RSforum/thread-936.html Sat, 10 Jun 2023 19:39:29 -0500 Grumpy Goat]]> https://rswasserboxer.com/R1200RSforum/thread-936.html

]]>

]]> https://rswasserboxer.com/R1200RSforum/thread-929.html Thu, 01 Jun 2023 17:27:25 -0500 MarionK]]> https://rswasserboxer.com/R1200RSforum/thread-929.html Is the oil level checked on the R1250RS on the side stand or the center stand? Or by having someone stand the bike upright? The side stand stance is so steep that I could imagine they smartly set it up so that I could check it like that, but...
I hate viewing glass for oil checks. Same thing with my FZ10 and I had to calibrate it to using the rear stand to be able to do it independently.

Thanks anyone who won't laugh me out of the forum for asking this!

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk]]> Is the oil level checked on the R1250RS on the side stand or the center stand? Or by having someone stand the bike upright? The side stand stance is so steep that I could imagine they smartly set it up so that I could check it like that, but...
I hate viewing glass for oil checks. Same thing with my FZ10 and I had to calibrate it to using the rear stand to be able to do it independently.

Thanks anyone who won't laugh me out of the forum for asking this!

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk]]> https://rswasserboxer.com/R1200RSforum/thread-891.html Thu, 09 Mar 2023 09:45:55 -0600 mspratz]]> https://rswasserboxer.com/R1200RSforum/thread-891.html https://rabaconda.com/products/street-bike-tire-changer. This is a magical little machine that weighs only 36 lbs (16 kg) and comes with a carry bag, so is completely portable. I bought the starter kit, which comes with bead grease and brush, 2 bead hold-down tools, and a few other bits and pieces. I also bought an extra hold-down tool, and the BMW 62/72 mm rear wheel adaptor.
I recently changed my Dunlop Roadsmart 4 tires (old and new) with it, and I couldn't believe how easy it was. The RS4s are known to have a very stiff sidewall and to be very difficult to change, so I was expecting some struggle. I did have about 30 seconds of struggle getting the second bead of the new rear tire mounted. The key is to get as much of the already mounted bead as possible into the drop-center of the rim. I needed all three hold-down tools for that step. 
Before attempting my first change I watched the Tutorial a bunch of times, made a checklist of things to remember, and then followed the video step by step as I changed the tires. I think that all helped a lot. 
The sheer genius of this machine, which now seems so obvious now but no-one else ever thought of, is that all the effort is in pushing down against the ground. The ratchet system means when mounting or dismounting you stand behind the machine and push the handle down repeatedly. You don't have to anchor the machine to the floor, you just need a non-slip surface on which to work. I used a heavy-duty 3' x 5' rubber-backed mat that we have. 
The Rabaconda is not cheap. I think the total for everything I bought was about US$700. 
And, you also need some sort of wheel balancing setup. I considered the Harbor Freight motorcycle wheel balancer, but its cones are too small for the R1200RS front wheel. I bought the Marc Parnes balancer, which is simple and beautifully made. For the R1200RS rear wheel you will also need the Marc Parnes 62mm BMW adaptor, and something to sit it on. I just use my jack stands, but milk crates with some weight in them would probably work. 
The two hardest parts of the whole operation were 1) getting the old wheel weights and adhesive off (this thing and some Goo Gone with a nylon scrubber and some elbow grease did the trick), 2) getting the new front tire bead to seat all the way around. I used plenty of bead grease and inflated to the max recommended 40 psi (dire warnings on the tire label to not exceed 40 psi to seat the bead) and left it overnight. About 1/3 of the bead still would not seat. In the end, I sprayed some WD-40 around the bead, removed the valve core (get air in faster) and pumped it up to 60 psi. Seconds later both beads seated with a pop. 
Next time I have 1500 miles left on a set of tires and I'm about to set off on a 3000 mile trip, I can keep the old tires and put them back on later.]]> https://rabaconda.com/products/street-bike-tire-changer. This is a magical little machine that weighs only 36 lbs (16 kg) and comes with a carry bag, so is completely portable. I bought the starter kit, which comes with bead grease and brush, 2 bead hold-down tools, and a few other bits and pieces. I also bought an extra hold-down tool, and the BMW 62/72 mm rear wheel adaptor.
I recently changed my Dunlop Roadsmart 4 tires (old and new) with it, and I couldn't believe how easy it was. The RS4s are known to have a very stiff sidewall and to be very difficult to change, so I was expecting some struggle. I did have about 30 seconds of struggle getting the second bead of the new rear tire mounted. The key is to get as much of the already mounted bead as possible into the drop-center of the rim. I needed all three hold-down tools for that step. 
Before attempting my first change I watched the Tutorial a bunch of times, made a checklist of things to remember, and then followed the video step by step as I changed the tires. I think that all helped a lot. 
The sheer genius of this machine, which now seems so obvious now but no-one else ever thought of, is that all the effort is in pushing down against the ground. The ratchet system means when mounting or dismounting you stand behind the machine and push the handle down repeatedly. You don't have to anchor the machine to the floor, you just need a non-slip surface on which to work. I used a heavy-duty 3' x 5' rubber-backed mat that we have. 
The Rabaconda is not cheap. I think the total for everything I bought was about US$700. 
And, you also need some sort of wheel balancing setup. I considered the Harbor Freight motorcycle wheel balancer, but its cones are too small for the R1200RS front wheel. I bought the Marc Parnes balancer, which is simple and beautifully made. For the R1200RS rear wheel you will also need the Marc Parnes 62mm BMW adaptor, and something to sit it on. I just use my jack stands, but milk crates with some weight in them would probably work. 
The two hardest parts of the whole operation were 1) getting the old wheel weights and adhesive off (this thing and some Goo Gone with a nylon scrubber and some elbow grease did the trick), 2) getting the new front tire bead to seat all the way around. I used plenty of bead grease and inflated to the max recommended 40 psi (dire warnings on the tire label to not exceed 40 psi to seat the bead) and left it overnight. About 1/3 of the bead still would not seat. In the end, I sprayed some WD-40 around the bead, removed the valve core (get air in faster) and pumped it up to 60 psi. Seconds later both beads seated with a pop. 
Next time I have 1500 miles left on a set of tires and I'm about to set off on a 3000 mile trip, I can keep the old tires and put them back on later.]]> https://rswasserboxer.com/R1200RSforum/thread-887.html Wed, 22 Feb 2023 07:53:50 -0600 Grumpy Goat]]> https://rswasserboxer.com/R1200RSforum/thread-887.html
When I do a search on the ASCycles parts fiche for the shaft for my 2016 R1200RS the part number returned is 33 73 8 531 102 and they want $732.22 for it, down from about $1200 where it was for years.


  ASCycles driveshaft.jpg (Size: 48.46 KB / Downloads: 268)

However there is more. Apparently BMW has changed the part number to 33 73 5 A67 0C3, saying that it replaces 33 73 8 531 102. ASCycles does show a listing for 33 73 5 A67 0C3 and their price is $219.10. This is the same as listed on the official BMW Motorrad website, which shows the following, confirming the new price:


  New driveshaft.jpg (Size: 54.49 KB / Downloads: 268)

This "new" driveshaft appears to be very similar to the one in my R1200RS and they claim it is a replacement for the original part number. There is some discussion on the MOA Forum about driveshaft phasing (i.e. it not being the same as the old shaft) but unless we have an actual picture of the 33 73 8 531 102 and the 33 73 5 A67 0C3 side by side and take measurements of the phase angle we can't know for sure. The sketches sure look the same but that could be copy-paste from one fiche item to the other. I can tell you that the phase angle on my shaft is not 90 degrees, so comparison without measurement is nonsense.


  New vs Old driveshaft.jpg (Size: 27.96 KB / Downloads: 268)

SO, now they have a "new" driveshaft with new part number. What else is new? Maybe phasing, maybe new heat treatment on the yokes?? New material, maybe? The [primary?] failures of these cardan shafts appears to mostly be at the yokes, so improving that part would solve the problem, in my view. 

One thing I believe is this - this is a much better indication of them addressing the failures of these shafts than any installation of the duck-bill rubber drain valves on the underside of the shaft housing.

Question for me is ... do I snap up one of these new shafts and replace mine as a preventative measure, or wait until it fails ...  ]]>
When I do a search on the ASCycles parts fiche for the shaft for my 2016 R1200RS the part number returned is 33 73 8 531 102 and they want $732.22 for it, down from about $1200 where it was for years.


  ASCycles driveshaft.jpg (Size: 48.46 KB / Downloads: 268)

However there is more. Apparently BMW has changed the part number to 33 73 5 A67 0C3, saying that it replaces 33 73 8 531 102. ASCycles does show a listing for 33 73 5 A67 0C3 and their price is $219.10. This is the same as listed on the official BMW Motorrad website, which shows the following, confirming the new price:


  New driveshaft.jpg (Size: 54.49 KB / Downloads: 268)

This "new" driveshaft appears to be very similar to the one in my R1200RS and they claim it is a replacement for the original part number. There is some discussion on the MOA Forum about driveshaft phasing (i.e. it not being the same as the old shaft) but unless we have an actual picture of the 33 73 8 531 102 and the 33 73 5 A67 0C3 side by side and take measurements of the phase angle we can't know for sure. The sketches sure look the same but that could be copy-paste from one fiche item to the other. I can tell you that the phase angle on my shaft is not 90 degrees, so comparison without measurement is nonsense.


  New vs Old driveshaft.jpg (Size: 27.96 KB / Downloads: 268)

SO, now they have a "new" driveshaft with new part number. What else is new? Maybe phasing, maybe new heat treatment on the yokes?? New material, maybe? The [primary?] failures of these cardan shafts appears to mostly be at the yokes, so improving that part would solve the problem, in my view. 

One thing I believe is this - this is a much better indication of them addressing the failures of these shafts than any installation of the duck-bill rubber drain valves on the underside of the shaft housing.

Question for me is ... do I snap up one of these new shafts and replace mine as a preventative measure, or wait until it fails ...  ]]> https://rswasserboxer.com/R1200RSforum/thread-874.html Sat, 28 Jan 2023 17:33:20 -0600 SoCalR1200RS]]> https://rswasserboxer.com/R1200RSforum/thread-874.html
I was attempting to change my final drive oil for the first time. I've done it before on my old R1100R multiple times without issue and was trying to be extra super careful. After letting it drain for a bit, running some clean fresh oil thru (and draining), I then went to reinstall the drain plug.

I did this as carefully as I possibly could. Starting the threads by hand and going by hand as long as I could. Eventually, I needed a rachet and slowly and smoothly cranked it until it was snug. I had written notes beforehand and my notes said it needed 20ft/lb of torque!!! I realize now that was supposed to be 20Nm! (god I hate that there are two measuring systems for the same things...). A quick maths check tells me that 20Nm is roughly 14.75ft/lbs.

When I was tightening, I thought it felt like too much force, so I used my torque wrench to check the pressure, which at the time was roughly 10ft/lbs, and I slowly, 1ft/lb at a time, worked my way up to around 18lb/ft at which point I really didn't feel comfortable tightening any further, and already suspected I had done something wrong. I had tightened to something like 24-27Nm. At this point, I decided to back the bolt out and inspect and sure enough, I saw the worst, little bits of threading came out with the plug.

Now - I'm stuck and afraid to move forward. Visual inspection of the bottom of the housing shows the very outermost thread was damaged, likely sheared off the bottom 1/4" of threading. The rest of the threads look fine however when I attempt to reseat the plug, I can only get a couple of turns by hand before it jams.

No clue what to do next. I don't want to force the plug in place and wind up stripping the rest of the threads. I also don't have access to die taps or similar tools to re-do the threads.

Oh, and the main reason for doing the maintenance now, is that my fiance just totalled our car (it was an accident) so I needed to make sure the bike was all set to be my only vehicle for now... So I'm really in a jam now - without this bike, I'm pretty much stranded.

Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated. Below are some photos of what I'm looking at.

  Plug.jpg (Size: 238.54 KB / Downloads: 176)

  Threads.jpg (Size: 266.47 KB / Downloads: 176) ]]>
I was attempting to change my final drive oil for the first time. I've done it before on my old R1100R multiple times without issue and was trying to be extra super careful. After letting it drain for a bit, running some clean fresh oil thru (and draining), I then went to reinstall the drain plug.

I did this as carefully as I possibly could. Starting the threads by hand and going by hand as long as I could. Eventually, I needed a rachet and slowly and smoothly cranked it until it was snug. I had written notes beforehand and my notes said it needed 20ft/lb of torque!!! I realize now that was supposed to be 20Nm! (god I hate that there are two measuring systems for the same things...). A quick maths check tells me that 20Nm is roughly 14.75ft/lbs.

When I was tightening, I thought it felt like too much force, so I used my torque wrench to check the pressure, which at the time was roughly 10ft/lbs, and I slowly, 1ft/lb at a time, worked my way up to around 18lb/ft at which point I really didn't feel comfortable tightening any further, and already suspected I had done something wrong. I had tightened to something like 24-27Nm. At this point, I decided to back the bolt out and inspect and sure enough, I saw the worst, little bits of threading came out with the plug.

Now - I'm stuck and afraid to move forward. Visual inspection of the bottom of the housing shows the very outermost thread was damaged, likely sheared off the bottom 1/4" of threading. The rest of the threads look fine however when I attempt to reseat the plug, I can only get a couple of turns by hand before it jams.

No clue what to do next. I don't want to force the plug in place and wind up stripping the rest of the threads. I also don't have access to die taps or similar tools to re-do the threads.

Oh, and the main reason for doing the maintenance now, is that my fiance just totalled our car (it was an accident) so I needed to make sure the bike was all set to be my only vehicle for now... So I'm really in a jam now - without this bike, I'm pretty much stranded.

Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated. Below are some photos of what I'm looking at.

  Plug.jpg (Size: 238.54 KB / Downloads: 176)

  Threads.jpg (Size: 266.47 KB / Downloads: 176) ]]> https://rswasserboxer.com/R1200RSforum/thread-856.html Mon, 12 Dec 2022 17:35:53 -0600 Grumpy Goat]]> https://rswasserboxer.com/R1200RSforum/thread-856.html
Don't particularly want to go through a whole bunch of bulbs to find the one that works without generating a code.]]>
Don't particularly want to go through a whole bunch of bulbs to find the one that works without generating a code.]]> https://rswasserboxer.com/R1200RSforum/thread-820.html Mon, 05 Sep 2022 18:28:47 -0500 mojoguzzi]]> https://rswasserboxer.com/R1200RSforum/thread-820.html
I tightened it, but wonder whether I should use loctite? 29,780 miles so far.

Here's a quick video


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk]]>
I tightened it, but wonder whether I should use loctite? 29,780 miles so far.

Here's a quick video


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk]]> https://rswasserboxer.com/R1200RSforum/thread-813.html Wed, 17 Aug 2022 08:59:21 -0500 Paul911]]> https://rswasserboxer.com/R1200RSforum/thread-813.html
It looks like I'm supposed to coat the front axle with grease. Is a lithium wheel bearing grease fine for that (since I have some). Also, should the nut on the left side be greased? 



Finally, how important is it to do final torque of the axle with the bike on the ground? Thanks.]]>
It looks like I'm supposed to coat the front axle with grease. Is a lithium wheel bearing grease fine for that (since I have some). Also, should the nut on the left side be greased? 



Finally, how important is it to do final torque of the axle with the bike on the ground? Thanks.]]>