This post assumes you have either the BMW shop manual or the Haynes manual for the R1200RS, and the right tools, and therefore know the documented procedure to remove and replace the front wheel.
Assuming you have a center stand or a rear track stand, the hard part is finding a secure way to support the front of the bike while you remove the wheel and while the wheel is off. I have a three pronged approach. I use my Pitbull front track stand under the fork legs, which by itself is pretty precarious, so I use my floor jack and a 4" length 2 by 4 lumber under the center of the engine, and a small jack stand under the front of the engine as a fail safe. Call me paranoid! Having supported everything to your satisfaction, follow the shop manual steps to remove the front wheel.
Here is the modified list of steps I go through to replace the front wheel:
1. While the calipers are displaced (not attached to the fork legs), using a slender shaft screwdriver or some similar tool inserted between the pads, or your fingers if you've removed the pads from the calipers, gently push all the pistons back into the calipers just a bit so the pads will have about 1 mm (1/16 inch) clearance either side of the rotors when the calipers are reinstalled. It takes surprisingly little pressure to do this. Don't push the pistons in any more than you need to.
2. Being careful not to bump the bike off its precarious supports, mount the front wheel in the forks. The valve stem points to the right, and the spacer goes on the left side of the wheel between the wheel and the left fork leg. Insert the axle from the right side. Tighten the axle bolt (50 nm). Tighten ONLY the left fork's leg axle clamping bolts (19 nm), alternatively torquing the two bolts at least four times each. DO NOT tighten the right fork leg's axle clamping bolts, they must remain loose.
3. Mount the brake calipers being careful not to scratch the wheels (I put some blue painters tape on the wheels to protect them before I displace the calipers in the first place), tightening the caliper mounting bolts only finger tight, and then loosen them 1/8th turn. DO NOT apply the front brakes.
4. Remove whatever is supporting the front of the bike and let the front wheel take the weight.
5. Use something to chock the front wheel so the bike can't roll backward or forward. I used to use two bricks, which is not ideal, but I recently invested $8 in a pair of plastic wheel chocks from Autozone, which work great. If you apply the front brakes instead of chocking the wheel to hold the bike in place, the calipers may apply some lateral pressure to the fork legs, not allowing the right fork leg, to find its position parallel with the left fork leg.
6. If you have Dynamic ESA suspension you must turn on the ignition (no need to start the engine) or you won't be able to compress the suspension. You will get much better front suspension compression if you use a rear track stand rather than the center stand to support the rear of the bike.
7. Climb on the bike, stand on the pegs, DO NOT apply the front brake. Throw your weight onto the handlebars a few time to compress the suspension as much as you can. I only weigh 145 lbs, so it takes all my weight to get good compression. The right side fork leg is now parallel with the left.
8. Turn off the ignition and carefully climb off the bike putting as little lateral load as possible on the bike or the handlebars, so as to not displace the right-side fork leg from the position it has just assumed on the axle. DO NOT apply the front brake, the calipers should still be loose with clearance between the pads and rotors.
9. Tighten the clamping bolts (19 Nm) of the right fork leg, alternatively torquing the two bolts at least four times each. The forks will now be nicely aligned, minimizing compression/rebound friction.
10. This step will prevent uneven end-to-end wear of the brake pads. With front brake calipers still loosely mounted, squeeze the front brake lever a few times until the pads contact the rotors. Squeeze and release the front brake a few more times to ensure the calipers are nicely aligned with the rotors. Squeeze and hold the front brake lever (no need to go too crazy) while you torque the front caliper mounting bolts (38 Nm). I use a Velcro strap around the hand grip and brake lever to keep the front brake applied while I torque the caliper mounting bolts.
11. Finish replacing everything else (wheel speed sensor, fender, etc.) per the shop manual instructions.
12. Test ride to make sure the suspension and brakes are working well.
Assuming you have a center stand or a rear track stand, the hard part is finding a secure way to support the front of the bike while you remove the wheel and while the wheel is off. I have a three pronged approach. I use my Pitbull front track stand under the fork legs, which by itself is pretty precarious, so I use my floor jack and a 4" length 2 by 4 lumber under the center of the engine, and a small jack stand under the front of the engine as a fail safe. Call me paranoid! Having supported everything to your satisfaction, follow the shop manual steps to remove the front wheel.
Here is the modified list of steps I go through to replace the front wheel:
1. While the calipers are displaced (not attached to the fork legs), using a slender shaft screwdriver or some similar tool inserted between the pads, or your fingers if you've removed the pads from the calipers, gently push all the pistons back into the calipers just a bit so the pads will have about 1 mm (1/16 inch) clearance either side of the rotors when the calipers are reinstalled. It takes surprisingly little pressure to do this. Don't push the pistons in any more than you need to.
2. Being careful not to bump the bike off its precarious supports, mount the front wheel in the forks. The valve stem points to the right, and the spacer goes on the left side of the wheel between the wheel and the left fork leg. Insert the axle from the right side. Tighten the axle bolt (50 nm). Tighten ONLY the left fork's leg axle clamping bolts (19 nm), alternatively torquing the two bolts at least four times each. DO NOT tighten the right fork leg's axle clamping bolts, they must remain loose.
3. Mount the brake calipers being careful not to scratch the wheels (I put some blue painters tape on the wheels to protect them before I displace the calipers in the first place), tightening the caliper mounting bolts only finger tight, and then loosen them 1/8th turn. DO NOT apply the front brakes.
4. Remove whatever is supporting the front of the bike and let the front wheel take the weight.
5. Use something to chock the front wheel so the bike can't roll backward or forward. I used to use two bricks, which is not ideal, but I recently invested $8 in a pair of plastic wheel chocks from Autozone, which work great. If you apply the front brakes instead of chocking the wheel to hold the bike in place, the calipers may apply some lateral pressure to the fork legs, not allowing the right fork leg, to find its position parallel with the left fork leg.
6. If you have Dynamic ESA suspension you must turn on the ignition (no need to start the engine) or you won't be able to compress the suspension. You will get much better front suspension compression if you use a rear track stand rather than the center stand to support the rear of the bike.
7. Climb on the bike, stand on the pegs, DO NOT apply the front brake. Throw your weight onto the handlebars a few time to compress the suspension as much as you can. I only weigh 145 lbs, so it takes all my weight to get good compression. The right side fork leg is now parallel with the left.
8. Turn off the ignition and carefully climb off the bike putting as little lateral load as possible on the bike or the handlebars, so as to not displace the right-side fork leg from the position it has just assumed on the axle. DO NOT apply the front brake, the calipers should still be loose with clearance between the pads and rotors.
9. Tighten the clamping bolts (19 Nm) of the right fork leg, alternatively torquing the two bolts at least four times each. The forks will now be nicely aligned, minimizing compression/rebound friction.
10. This step will prevent uneven end-to-end wear of the brake pads. With front brake calipers still loosely mounted, squeeze the front brake lever a few times until the pads contact the rotors. Squeeze and release the front brake a few more times to ensure the calipers are nicely aligned with the rotors. Squeeze and hold the front brake lever (no need to go too crazy) while you torque the front caliper mounting bolts (38 Nm). I use a Velcro strap around the hand grip and brake lever to keep the front brake applied while I torque the caliper mounting bolts.
11. Finish replacing everything else (wheel speed sensor, fender, etc.) per the shop manual instructions.
12. Test ride to make sure the suspension and brakes are working well.
