So I brought my brand new Dunlop Roadsmart III front tire, still in plastic wrap from Revzilla, to the dealer along with my wheel to have it mounted and balanced.

I got a call a few minutes later because of this problem.

   
   

Revzilla was very understanding when I contacted them about this and issued me an RMA# immediately and issued $20 in Zilla Cash for my troubles. First class service as always.

I have bought perfect tires from them in the past and I am sure that this is an anomaly, and will continue to get my tires from them.

Oh, since I had to get a tire on the wheel today I bought a Michelin Road 5GT so will have a mix once again since I have a RSIII on the rear.

Looks like it was caused by banding material for shipping.

Back when I used to mount my tires sometimes they would arrive banded.
As soon as I got the tires I would unwrap them and cut any straps and let the tires sit fow a few days. If it was summer and if the tires had any kinks I would let them sit in the sun a couple times.
This was bias ply tires. I don't know if beads are stiffer in modern radials and if those kinks would come out after the tire relaxes in the heat.

I clicked on this thread thinking it was something totally different.

(08-21-2020, 07:30 AM)MrVvrroomm Wrote: I clicked on this thread thinking it was something totally different.

(08-21-2020, 06:58 AM)Lee Wrote: Back when I used to mount my tires sometimes they would arrive banded.
As soon as I got the tires I would unwrap them and cut any straps and let the tires sit fow a few days. If it was summer and if the tires had any kinks I would let them sit in the sun a couple times.
This was bias ply tires. I don't know if beads are stiffer in modern radials and if those kinks would come out after the tire relaxes in the heat.

Yes, word to the wise - don't leave the tire wrapped up assuming, as I did, that they would be fine. Open up immediately and inspect them.

I doubt that sunlight - even the hellish Texas sun - would have unkinked that bead, since it was the wire inside that was bent and per the technical, would not be safe to hold air. They reluctantly suggested trying to straighten it out and I declined knowing that Revzilla would make it right.

The technician and I agreed that it looked like it was possibly hanging from a wall hook through the plastic so that they would not have realized that it was kinked when they shipped it out.

One thing I realized while the wheel was off - I should change the brake pads before leaving for Gunnison. They are finally almost worn out and the CL pads have been sitting on my workbench for more than a year now.

(08-21-2020, 09:06 AM)Grumpy Goat Wrote:

(08-21-2020, 06:58 AM)Lee Wrote: Back when I used to mount my tires sometimes they would arrive banded.
As soon as I got the tires I would unwrap them and cut any straps and let the tires sit fow a few days. If it was summer and if the tires had any kinks I would let them sit in the sun a couple times.
This was bias ply tires. I don't know if beads are stiffer in modern radials and if those kinks would come out after the tire relaxes in the heat.

Yes, word to the wise - don't leave the tire wrapped up assuming, as I did, that they would be fine. Open up immediately and inspect them.

I doubt that sunlight - even the hellish Texas sun - would have unkinked that bead, since it was the wire inside that was bent and per the technical, would not be safe to hold air. They reluctantly suggested trying to straighten it out and I declined knowing that Revzilla would make it right.

The technician and I agreed that it looked like it was possibly hanging from a wall hook through the plastic so that they would not have realized that it was kinked when they shipped it out.

One thing I realized while the wheel was off - I should change the brake pads before leaving for Gunnison. They are finally almost worn out and the CL pads have been sitting on my workbench for more than a year now.

Yep a thick wire bead probably would not relax.
Without measuring ours it looks like our rear pads are less than half.
I'll probably put in the Carbone Lorraine pads I have on hand before Colorado.

(08-21-2020, 09:55 AM)Lee Wrote: Without measuring ours it looks like our rear pads are less than half.
I'll probably put in the Carbone Lorraine pads I have on hand before Colorado.

How many miles on the bike Lee? I take it these are the originals ...?

(08-21-2020, 10:17 AM)Grumpy Goat Wrote:

(08-21-2020, 09:55 AM)Lee Wrote: Without measuring ours it looks like our rear pads are less than half.
I'll probably put in the Carbone Lorraine pads I have on hand before Colorado.

How many miles on the bike Lee? I take it these are the originals ...?

44,600 miles on mine and 42,200 miles on Deb's.
Original pads.

(08-20-2020, 07:53 PM)Grumpy Goat Wrote: So I brought my brand new Dunlop Roadsmart III front tire, still in plastic wrap from Revzilla,

Did you give up on your tire changer or are you waiting on more tools?

(08-21-2020, 11:51 AM)Lee Wrote: 44,600 miles on mine and 42,200 miles on Deb's.
Original pads.

Y'all are not far behind me at 48k miles and original pads as well. I'd say that the BMW pads are good for 50k with average riding. I'll take pictures when I change them.

(08-21-2020, 11:54 AM)Lee Wrote: Did you give up on your tire changer or are you waiting on more tools?

I did make an attempt using the tire changer in combination with some levers I bought. Got the one side off but started to feel a bit faint at that point so I had to stop. BP had dropped below normal and I almost passed out. I was doing a lot of exertion, up and down with the wheel, getting it on the machine, and then working the tire off. I recovered in about a couple hours and was able to take it to the dealer. Not sure about using the changer now ... which is a shame especially since I now have 4 tires, although the rate of wear is probably going to be the same.

I then decided that I'd use the Revzilla coupon for a $25 tire change at Cycle Gear but when I called and was told who would be changing it, I decided to spend the extra bucks and get it done at the dealer for $50.

(08-21-2020, 09:06 AM)Grumpy Goat Wrote: I should change the brake pads before leaving for Gunnison.

I also just had new Dunlop RS3s installed. While the wheel was off I cleaned the calipers and found that one set of pads was worn unevenly front to back. They still had plenty of life left. The other set were less than half worn. But I changed both sets anyway.
I know now how to prevent the uneven pad wear. When re-mounting the calipers (after for example a front wheel removal/reinstall) finger tighten the caliper mounting bolts and then back them off a bit. Squeeze and release the brake lever a couple of times to center the calipers relative to the rotors. Then squeeze and hold the brake lever while torquing the caliper mounting bolts. I have a large velcro band that I use to clamp the brake lever while I torque the caliper bolts.
This is just part of about a 20 step process that I now go through when reinstalling the front wheel. The process both ensures minimal suspension friction, and that the brake calipers are not slightly skewed relative to the rotors. I'll write it up and post if anyone is interested. Haven't got time today or tomorrow, but maybe later in the week.

(08-22-2020, 08:54 AM)mspratz Wrote:

(08-21-2020, 09:06 AM)Grumpy Goat Wrote: I should change the brake pads before leaving for Gunnison.

I also just had new Dunlop RS3s installed. While the wheel was off I cleaned the calipers and found that one set of pads was worn unevenly front to back. They still had plenty of life left. The other set were less than half worn. But I changed both sets anyway.
I know now how to prevent the uneven pad wear. When re-mounting the calipers (after for example a front wheel removal/reinstall) finger tighten the caliper mounting bolts and then back them off a bit. Squeeze and release the brake lever a couple of times to center the calipers relative to the rotors. Then squeeze and hold the brake lever while torquing the caliper mounting bolts. I have a large velcro band that I use to clamp the brake lever while I torque the caliper bolts.
This is just part of about a 20 step process that I now go through when reinstalling the front wheel. The process both ensures minimal suspension friction, and that the brake calipers are not slightly skewed relative to the rotors. I'll write it up and post if anyone is interested. Haven't got time today or tomorrow, but maybe later in the week.

Thanks

(08-22-2020, 08:54 AM)mspratz Wrote: I know now how to prevent the uneven pad wear.
...
I'll write it up and post if anyone is interested. Haven't got time today or tomorrow, but maybe later in the week.

Brilliant! I wish that I had done that when I put my calipers back on this morning. Oh well, next time.

Please do the write up! It would be much appreciated.

(08-22-2020, 11:45 AM)Grumpy Goat Wrote: Brilliant! I wish that I had done that when I put my calipers back on this morning. Oh well, next time.

GG: Easy fix. Just loosen the front caliper mounting bolts, and follow those steps.

(08-22-2020, 04:46 PM)mspratz Wrote: GG: Easy fix. Just loosen the front caliper mounting bolts, and follow those steps.

I already booked my wife to do the squeezing of the front brake tomorrow.

(08-22-2020, 09:35 PM)Grumpy Goat Wrote:

(08-22-2020, 04:46 PM)mspratz Wrote: GG: Easy fix. Just loosen the front caliper mounting bolts, and follow those steps.

I already booked my wife to do the squeezing of the front brake tomorrow.

A long strip of Velcro like Michael mentioned should work.
I use double sided Velcro a lot for different things.

(08-23-2020, 07:03 AM)Lee Wrote: A long strip of Velcro like Michael mentioned should work.
I use double sided Velcro a lot for different things.

I have a nylon strap somewhere. Anyway just had Donna squeeze the front brake lever while the caliper bolts were loose, and then re-torqued them while she was still squeezing. That will center the calipers on the disks. Thanks again to Mike for the reminder.

I'm not sure I quite get this. The calipers are a single hydraulic circuit. When you apply pressure all the pistons push equally. Any off center of the mount should be of no consequence.