Denali Powerhub 2 Installation Questions

[DrDave39]

The Previous owner ran power from the battery up to a nest of SAE cables. I want to clean things up and have easy power access for my heated gear and the Corbin heated seat I just scored for my winter riding. I'll also be wiring power for my Zumo XT and a 12v to USB for my phone. Lights probably will be added later.  So, looking for advice from folks who have installed this or other power block setups.

There is already a direct connection to the battery I will use. So, first question- where do I tap for power that comes on with the ignition to turn the Powerhub on? I have seen the rear running light wire suggested- which is it? Also I have read there is a fused connection under the seat that is switched with he ignition. I plan to locate it under he rear seat compartment if that helps.

I'll try to take some pics as I do the install (it's supposed to arrive tomorrow). Any suggestions or ideas appreciated!

Dave

[maxredline]

I use the Denali cansmart controller for its intended purpose but the add says,
"Simply connect the CANsmart Controller to your BMW's TPMS connector to access over 35 programmable accessory settings designed to control auxiliary lights, turn signals, horns, brake lights, or any accessory you can imagine."

Denali

[Grumpy Goat]

When it comes to add-on electronics, Denali Electronics is a favourite of mine, and has been so for years and through several bikes.

While I note you are looking for assistance in the installation of the Denali PowerHub 2, I note you also enquired about other similar units, hence this input.

I recently (last weekend) installed the Healtech Thunderbox TB-U02 module on my Tiger and it is working perfectly as described - video will drop in November. It allows up to 8 accessories to be connected in 2 circuits for a total of 2 x 16A. I presently have only my Nav VI hardwired and it works perfectly. It allows 2 modes of connection - Automatic (delayed start and stop; default) or on with the ignition (requires trigger wire to be tapped into some existing circuit, supplied). All circuits are switchable, as opposed to the PowerHub2 where you can mix and match.

Installation in automatic mode is simply the connection to the battery and then sticking (literally) the [smaller] unit somewhere convenient - done. If you want the connected accessories to come on right away with the ignition, you need to tap into a switchable circuit, similar to the PowerHub2. The downside I see is that with this mode all available current may not be available to start the bike, and if you don't have an accessory that is immediately needed then why bother splicing into a wire.

Hope this is of use.

[DrDave39]

Grumpy-

Thanks!  Wish I had seen this before I ordered the Denali- I don't want anything to run wen the ignition is off anyway (I am leaving one fused SAE connector direct to the battery for charging anyway, so I would have unswitched power for a pump as well if needed. Plus this is half the price!

I will have GPS, USB for phone(The Thunderbox has a dedicated outlet for that built in!), Corbin heated seat (surprising only needs a 7.5 AMP fuse per Corbin), and heated jacket liner. Probably will add some lighting later.  I think I'm going to order a Thunderbox and return the Denali.....

[Grumpy Goat]

I don’t think you’d be disappointed. I have 2 things connected to the battery - Thunderbox and SAE pigtail which serves dual purpose - charging and heated gear.

[DrDave39]

so you use the SAE direct to battery for the heated gear? I wondered about that- not sure what the current draw is for my heated jacket. I was surprised the Corbin seat only needs a 7.5 amp fuse, so it can't draw very much! The R has a direct SAE connected to the battery I use for charging, so I could just use that, but I was thinking of running an SAE connector from the Thunderbox from under the seat to be easier to connect while on the seat.

Hey since I have you here anyway- I did get the Thunderbox, it arrived today. What sweet setup- I love the wire connectors. One question about connecting the ground wires- is there someway they have to match on the block connectors, or does it not matter (I assume they all connect to the same ground anyway...). The instructions don't say either way.

Addendum- my jacket is an older model, the spec for the current jackets are 42 watt, 3.2 amp. Shouldn't be a problem running it through the Thunderbox. I got the twin 16 box, so I'll connect the Corbin seat on one positive block and the heated jacket on the other just to be safe. The ret of the stuff (GPS, USB, light later) won't draw much extra.

Dave

[Grumpy Goat]

so you use the SAE direct to battery for the heated gear? I wondered about that- not sure what the current draw is for my heated jacket. I was surprised the Corbin seat only needs a 7.5 amp fuse, so it can't draw very much! The R has a direct SAE connected  to the battery I use for charging,  so I could just use that, but I was thinking of running an SAE connector from the Thunderbox  from under the seat to be easier to connect while on the seat.

My bike came with a fused SAE pigtail connected to the battery, and this is a popular dealer-installed accessory with all bikes I have ever bought. With this installed, they can throw a charger on any bike they have in stock to keep it charged up and ready for riding. In the past I have always added a separate fused co-ax pigtail that came with the heated gear; so that is a second pigtail on the battery terminal. With this Tiger, I took a different approach. Since the charging pigtail and the heated gear are never used at the same time, and to reduce the number of connectors on the battery terminals, I simply added an SAE - co-as adapter. So on the Tiger I have only 2 connectors at present, and one day a third will be added when the Denali CANSmart is added - that is it for this bike.

I like a separate direct-to-battery pigtail for my charging purposes. I have never gone through the CAN-Bus system and likely never will, designed for it or not. With this approach I have never had any issues with charging, batteries, or anything electrical (knock on wood).

Hey since I have you here anyway- I did get the Thunderbox, it arrived today. What sweet setup- I love the wire connectors. One question about connecting the ground wires- is there someway they have to match on the block connectors, or does it not matter (I assume they all connect to the same ground anyway...).  The instructions don't say either way.

It does not matter since each connector is a sort of bus-bar, i.e. one common terminal. What I assume to matter is that you utilise one circuit or the other for each accessory, i.e. don't connect +ve on one circuit and -ve on the other circuit.

Addendum- my jacket is an older model, the spec for the current jackets are 42 watt, 3.2 amp. Shouldn't be a problem running it through the Thunderbox. I got the twin 16 box, so I'll connect the Corbin seat on one positive block and the heated jacket on the other just to be safe. The ret of the stuff (GPS, USB, light later) won't draw much extra.

Dave

While I like the Thunderbox a lot for the 8 connection possibilities, I had a concern that I have never seen addressed or explained anywhere, and that is the gauge of the wires. The Thunderbox claims to handle up to 2 x 16 A accessories, yet the wires are not even as thick as speaker wires, and those connectors appear to be made for lighter gauge wires.

Generally, the more current is passed through wires the thicker gauge the wires need to be or else they could overheat. Heated elements (gear, seat, etc.) draw more power and so the demand on the wires would be higher; Healtech must have accounted for this. If the Thunderbox can somehow handle it through its internal circuitry such that the wires are as they are, then that is great, and your approach to keep the two on the separate circuits is a logical one.

UPDATE: I forgot to mention, my Thunderbox installation video dropped today. Since it is a universal accessory, sharing the link here is not off topic.

[DrDave39]

I had the same thought about the wiring. One option would be to use a relay with direct battery power and heavier gauge wiring, controlled by the Thunderbox. I'm going to try a direct setup first and let it run for 5 or so minutes and see how hot it gets. If it gets more than lukewarm I'll go with the relays for gear and for the seat.

[Grumpy Goat]

I had the same thought about the wiring. One option would be to use a relay with direct battery power and heavier gauge wiring, controlled by the Thunderbox. I'm going to try a direct setup first and let it run for 5 or so minutes and see how hot it gets.  If it gets more than lukewarm I'll go with the relays for gear and for the seat.

Good plan. Please let us know the results.

[NormR]

I see this thread has gone thru quite a bit of detail already but I'd like to hear where some people are actually installing the unit? I removed a few of my panels on the battery side and its pretty densely packed in there already. Not sure if DrDave can chirp in where he installed his unit?
Thanks in advance

[DrDave39]

I see this thread has gone thru quite a bit of detail already but I'd like to hear where some people are actually installing the unit? I removed a few of my panels on the battery side and its pretty densely packed in there already. Not sure if DrDave can chirp in where he installed his unit?
Thanks in advance

Norm-

The power leads on the Thunderbox were a bit short and I had the same concerns about space under the battery cover. So I spliced about 9"more cablewith terminal ends on them and am going to locate it under the seat. More room, easier to access, and closer to my already wired-in accessories.

Dave

[NormR]

I see this thread has gone thru quite a bit of detail already but I'd like to hear where some people are actually installing the unit? I removed a few of my panels on the battery side and its pretty densely packed in there already. Not sure if DrDave can chirp in where he installed his unit?
Thanks in advance

Norm-

The power leads on the Thunderbox were a bit short and I had the same concerns about space under the battery cover. So I spliced about 9"more cablewith terminal ends on them and am going to locate it under the seat. More room, easier to access, and closer to my already wired-in accessories.

Dave

Dave, thank you for your reply! Your idea actually makes a lot of sense considering the lack of usable space near the battery. When I first took the unit out of the packaging I was telling myself "simple install-simple install" Now I'll be chanting "only splicing-only splicing" and see how that goes lol.

[dravnx]

I wire this https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71H6...L1452_.jpg and this https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/5120...L1000_.jpg. Tap into the aux power jack A+ to trigger the relay. 6 channels and they are only hot when the ignition is on. Mount it under the seat.
Be careful using the SAE jack for a compressor. The wiring and included fuse are not rated for the current draw of your compressor.

[colirv]

Late to the party I know, but if we're looking at other options, I use a Fuzeblock, located under the rear seat.The main positive terminal uses a thick fused wire to the battery's auxiliary terminal, the ignition source is from the fuseholder under the front seat and the earth goes to the chassis.