Speed Bleeders for the RS

[Grumpy Goat]

Hey Grumpy, did you have the regular steel speed bleeders or the stainless versions? I'm guessing by the part numbers you quoted in your original post they were not the stainless steel variety.

Michael, yes they are the regular ones going by the part numbers. Can't remember why I didn't get the stainless steel versions.

I just bought the stainless ones (and SpeedBleeder's special thread sealant) for my my RS, but haven't installed them yet. Given your recent experience I'm wishing I hadn't ordered the bleeders. I already have the Motion Pro solution, but have found it doesn't work for vacuum bleeding because air leaks in around the threads, despite my attempts to seal the threads with plumbers thread tape.

Hmmm ... good to know. My Motion Pro speed bleeder just arrived and I have a vacuum bleeding kit that I have yet to use, so I will see if my experience is the same.

Now I'm thinking maybe I'll just use their special thread sealant to seal the threads of the standard bleed valves, and use the Motion Pro and my MityVac.

I was planning to do the same when I revert. The standard BMW bleed valves look like they may be more robust but then the Speed Bleeder one did not "look" weak, just tiny (left front is the tiniest of the three).

[Grumpy Goat]

Grumpy, looking at the picture you posted of the sheared speedbleeder on your RS. I wonder if you could pull that ball out of there with a magnet, and then get a screw extractor in there to get the broken bleeder out? I think the ball must only be held in place by the spring that is poking out of the other bit (in your hand in the photo), so the ball should just come right out. Just a thought; I could be totally wrong.

I would hope that I can't pull the ball out with a magnet. I think that hydraulic pressure is on the other side of the ball. This GIF from the Speed Bleeder home page sort of shows how it works.

[Lee]

I would hope that I can't pull the ball out with a magnet. I think that hydraulic pressure is on the other side of the ball. This GIF from the Speed Bleeder home page sort of shows how it works.

I would think there's no pressure under the ball when not pressing on the brake lever.
In your picture I don't see the spring on top of the ball. Surprised the ball does not pop out when pressing the lever.

[Grumpy Goat]

I would think there's no pressure under the ball when not pressing on the brake lever.
In your picture I don't see the spring on top of the ball. Surprised the ball does not pop out when pressing the lever.

There will be some small pressure on the ball when not pressing the lever or else it would not stay closed as it is right now. When the lever is pressed the system is pressurized (so as to move the pads) and the ball is further pressed up towards the nozzle of the bleeder. I have applied the brakes firmly (in my garage) and the system remained closed (ball did not fly out). Many posts suggest that the bike can be ridden with a broken Speed Bleeder in it until the owner decides to remove the broken bit. My experience supports this since the piece that is broken off is open to the atmosphere.

Here is an interesting thread on the BMW Sport Touring Forum that came up after I Googled "Speed bleeder breaking off".

I would not say that they are garbage, but their propensity to shear off calls into question whether the benefit is worth the potential aggravation. Like I said, it does not take much to shear one off, especially the tiny one like I did. I suspect even the right front would do better, and moreso the rear, since they increase in size in that order. The company admits that the speed bleeders are "not case hardened for a reason" but they don't say what this is, although it maybe has to do with extraction once sheared off.

Drama.

[mspratz]

I would hope that I can't pull the ball out with a magnet. I think that hydraulic pressure is on the other side of the ball. This GIF from the Speed Bleeder home page sort of shows how it works.

Based on looking at that GIF, the end with the spring was in your hand in the picture, so there is nothing holding that ball in the sheared off Speedbleeder other than gravity. I still say try a magnet. The ball is there to stop air being sucked back into the caliper, so it is free to come out now the spring is no longer holding it down.

[Grumpy Goat]

Based on looking at that GIF, the end with the spring was in your hand in the picture, so there is nothing holding that ball in the sheared off Speedbleeder other than gravity. I still say try a magnet. The ball is there to stop air being sucked back into the caliper, so it is free to come out now the spring is no longer holding it down.

The cavity in which the ball moves is rounded at both ends with a hole at the ends for fluid to pass through. It held brake pressure with the end broken off, which cannot be the case if a magnet can pull it out.

The brake job is done and I have a video coming out describing what had to be done - and in the end it did not involve removing the broken end of the Speed Bleeder.

I'll just say this ... after bleeding all the brakes I have ordered another Speed Bleeder for the left front - this time stainless steel, in the hopes that it is a little stronger. Using the Speed Bleeders is so convenient that it is worth the risk, I suppose. I also used my new Motion Pro inline speed bleeder on the left front with its conventional bleed valve, and it worked perfectly; except when you disconnect, both tubes are full of brake fluid. Had to use a paper rag and capillary action to pull the fluid out.

On a separate note that may be of interest to you - I found an LED solution that is plug-and-play, and so far is working well. As you would have guessed there is a video for that too.

[Grumpy Goat]