Tire Information

[Lee]

I'm a Revzilla Pro member (which gets me access to REVER pro mapping with Butler overlays for free), but I will never understand why we don't give the local guys a chance before jumping on the "discount prices" of warehoused tires (or helmets). I've never had to mention Revzilla/Cycle Gear prices, because the local guys and gals have never quoted me a price above minimum advertised price (MAP). 

Cycle Clinic in Des Moines has been giving us good prices on tires since 1988.
I don't bother asking the price I just call and tell him what we want and he orders them if he does not have them in stock.
He's 70 miles away and I don't mind the drive because he's always good to us.
The closest place for us to buy tires and have them mounted is 30 miles.

Last month I was concerned when I called Cycle Clinic and the phone was not not answered for a couple days and Google showed Temporarily Closed.
I road up to see if there was a sign on the door and there was one showing closed for medical emergency.
A few days later when he was feeling better he called me because I had tires waiting and explained what was up.
I told him I was fine with waiting while he got caught up with the back log. Think I'll call today.
   

[Ray]

I'm a Revzilla Pro member (which gets me access to REVER pro mapping with Butler overlays for free), but I will never understand why we don't give the local guys a chance before jumping on the "discount prices" of warehoused tires (or helmets). I've never had to mention Revzilla/Cycle Gear prices, because the local guys and gals have never quoted me a price above minimum advertised price (MAP). 

Cycle Clinic in Des Moines has been giving us good prices on tires since 1988.
I don't bother asking the price I just call and tell him what we want and he orders them if he does not have them in stock.
He's 70 miles away and I don't mind the drive because he's always good to us.
The closest place for us to buy tires and have them mounted is 30 miles.....

In a way, good to know. I might have mentioned - had a lot of fun getting tires changed at different shops around the country when I was running sport tires on the RS (and eeking out 3000 miles/pair). 

Kind of miss that now that the RS IV gets me in the 6500 + mile range, but thought about reviving the ritual when I recently swapped out tires with a couple thousand miles of tread left. (Leaving one of the younger mechanics happy with my donation of usable rubber to the shop.) 

If the trip wasn't tied to the rally and the associated increase in demand on the southeastern dealerships, I might have pulled the trigger on an appointment at one of the iconic dealerships along the way.

[Ray]

As for riding ... still have not ridden due to this blasted heat and humidity. Drove the truck to work today ... 

Understood. When I first moved to St. Louis, the insurance company gave me the option of insurance for riding 9 months of the year - which led to the question of which 3 months to take off. (Simple answer - June, July, August.) 

(In the end, I never took that option. Even my bicycles have more miles on them than my 10 year old car.) 

[Lee]

We drove up to Des Moines today to have our new front Road Smart 3 tires mounted.
A little under 11,000 miles with 2.5/32" of tread remaining on the old RS3s.
Price was $102 for each tire plus tax and mounting. Tire date was fairly fresh. Maybe 9 months old when he received them around 6 weeks ago.
Looks like internet prices are $108 to $111, but I see they are not available.
Maybe they have stopped production on the 3 and a RS5 will soon be available.

Yesterday waiting for new rubber.
   

   

[darrell]

They continue to manufacture the RS III and there is no known RSV available in the near term.

The reason they will continue to produce the RSIII is because they come in many sizes used on many other brand and models of bikes with tire sizes not available in the RSIV.  They just released a few weeks ago the 19” RSIV for the GS style bikes.

[maxredline]

I did my research online for a good price on tires and then went down to the local MC shop to see if they could price match. The whole idea was to support the local shop. While at the shop I talked to the owner who was working the floor and parts department. I asked if he could match the price. He told me he would not as he would only make a 10% markup.
I don't have a degree in economics but that just did not make sense to me. 10% plus mounting and balancing sounds like a value plus to me. I am sure there is more to the story on the owners side but the shop is gone now replaced with a bicycle store.

[Grumpy Goat]

I did my research online for a good price on tires and then went down to the local MC shop to see if they could price match. The whole idea was to support the local shop. While at the shop I talked to the owner who was working the floor and parts department. I asked if he could match the price. He told me he would not as he would only make a 10% markup.
I don't have a degree in economics but that just did not make sense to me. 10% plus mounting and balancing sounds like a value plus to me. I am sure there is more to the story on the owners side but the shop is gone now replaced with a bicycle store.

I guess the online price is lower than the price that his shop could afford and that he could not give a discount. That is also understandable if his cost was too high to begin with. 

The problem with business is people often charge prices more than the market will bear and then get upset when the customers go someplace cheaper. If he had suggested that he could not move on the price of the tire but he could do something on the mounting and balancing then that is different, and maybe he could gain the business that way and still make some margin. But instead, he sounds like he let the business walk out the door and as a result - boom - bicycle shop.

I too like to give local businesses a try first but if their business attitude is not right they lose my business. Simple. I don't owe anything to that kind of local business. That said, the online businesses can often times offer a much lower price which is why I allow a 10% upcharge on the local shop that has a good attitude.

[Ray]

I asked if he could match the price. He told me he would not as he would only make a 10% markup....

...the shop is gone now replaced with a bicycle store.

Sorry to hear.

(At times, many bicycle shops are forced to be happy with a 10% mark-up.) 

Go figure.

[VelasquezRider]

43k kms
Out with the old Mitas and in with the new T31
The rear eventually last a couple more thousand before order the t31 rear

Nothing like new fresh tyres

picture share

[36654]

I went the RSIV route last year hoping for higher mileage than the prior set of Michelin Road 5 and 5 GTs.  Sadly, I didn't see a change in mileage, touching the wear bars at ~6500 miles on the front with plenty of remaining tread on the rear tire.  The replacement front tire (RSIV) was delivered, and the price ($157) was a few dollars less than I paid a year ago.  We'll see how long the rear lasts.

At $157 for the front and $207 for the rear, the Dunlops are significantly cheaper than the Michelins.  My only complaint is a slight vibration (side-to-side) on the first front tire.  Was it an artifact of the tread pattern or a fabrication flaw, I don't know.  I'm hoping it was something specific that tire.

[Ray]

I went the RSIV route last year hoping for higher mileage than the prior set of Michelin Road 5 and 5 GTs.  Sadly, I didn't see a change in mileage, touching the wear bars at ~6500 miles on the front with plenty of remaining tread on the rear tire.  The replacement front tire (RSIV) was delivered, and the price ($157) was a few dollars less than I paid a year ago.  We'll see how long the rear lasts.

At $157 for the front and $207 for the rear, the Dunlops are significantly cheaper than the Michelins.  My only complaint is a slight vibration (side-to-side) on the first front tire.  Was it an artifact of the tread pattern or a fabrication flaw, I don't know.  I'm hoping it was something specific that tire.

Wow. You must be one of the brake hard to go fast folks..., or it's a bad front tire. 

(I thought I was abusing the RSIV with some aggressive riding when I hit the wear bars front and rear about the same time following a ~7000 mile trip.)

I'm trying to think of anytime in the last 40 y that I've been riding heavier bikes, that I went through the front tire before the rear. Don't thinks so. Might be something to ask Dunlop about. It might be good for a free tire. 

In the days of lesser brakes (and proportionally more engine braking), I recall even on sport tires, I could very rarely get two rears for every front - like the rest of the riders who simply twisted throttles on relatively flat, straight roads, in the early era of safe triple digit travel.  (What a blast.)

[Duccrazydave]

Oh yeh! Count me in for the free tire program 
Seriously, I'm in the same camp. Every set of tires I've pulled off my RS usually has 1-2K left on the rear. Over the years I've had similar results with my old Ducati, but not as dramatic. The RSIV's have been the longest lasting, most consistent 'til the end tire for me.
Definitely, for better or worse, my style of riding.

[36654]

I went the RSIV route last year hoping for higher mileage than the prior set of Michelin Road 5 and 5 GTs.  Sadly, I didn't see a change in mileage, touching the wear bars at ~6500 miles on the front with plenty of remaining tread on the rear tire.  The replacement front tire (RSIV) was delivered, and the price ($157) was a few dollars less than I paid a year ago.  We'll see how long the rear lasts.

At $157 for the front and $207 for the rear, the Dunlops are significantly cheaper than the Michelins.  My only complaint is a slight vibration (side-to-side) on the first front tire.  Was it an artifact of the tread pattern or a fabrication flaw, I don't know.  I'm hoping it was something specific that tire.

Wow. You must be one of the brake hard to go fast folks..., or it's a bad front tire. 

(I thought I was abusing the RSIV with some aggressive riding when I hit the wear bars front and rear about the same time following a ~7000 mile trip.)

I'm trying to think of anytime in the last 40 y that I've been riding heavier bikes, that I went through the front tire before the rear. Don't thinks so. Might be something to ask Dunlop about. It might be good for a free tire. 

In the days of lesser brakes (and proportionally more engine braking), I recall even on sport tires, I could very rarely get two rears for every front - like the rest of the riders who simply twisted throttles on relatively flat, straight roads, in the early era of safe triple digit travel.  (What a blast.)

It's a me thing.  Ever since my K75 days, I've toasted front tires faster than rears.  The front brake is my preferred tool.

As for the Dunlop front tire, there's a mold seam (flash) at the center of the tread.  On my worn tire, you can see a color change in the compound at that location.  Around the circumference, the location of that color change varies in a weave pattern.  On the new tire, there's a small bit of mold line flash at the center, but it's consistant around the tire.  Therefore, I'm hopeful for a better result.

However, after ordering the new tire, I'm kinda regretting not trying the Mutant.

[Ray]

However, after ordering the new tire, I'm kinda regretting not trying the Mutant.

I would think that if you're pushing the front tire around that much, then the tread on the mutant would simply create one big field of cupping - if you're sensitive to that type of wear. But would be happy to hear what you think if you push that button. I always felt that up front, the less tread the better.

To be honest, I never really understood the purpose of tread lines accross the tire on the road, where the primary purpose is channeling watter. If you try it, you'll find slicks are great on gravel. The only time I need some knobbiness is mud, dirt, and sand. (OK - and maybe not even sand if it's deep and one has to go with the big balloon tire approach.)

(I still think the mutant is a fashion statement for "adventure" street riders or retro, go-anywhere bikes that never do..., but that's just me.)

[36654]

However, after ordering the new tire, I'm kinda regretting not trying the Mutant.

I would think that if you're pushing the front tire around that much, then the tread on the mutant would simply create one big field of cupping - if you're sensitive to that type of wear. But would be happy to hear what you think if you push that button. I always felt that up front, the less tread the better.

To be honest, I never really understood the purpose of tread lines accross the tire on the road, where the primary purpose is channeling watter. If you try it, you'll find slicks are great on gravel. The only time I need some knobbiness is mud, dirt, and sand. (OK - and maybe not even sand if it's deep and one has to go with the big balloon tire approach.)

(I still think the mutant is a fashion statement for "adventure" street riders or retro, go-anywhere bikes that never do..., but that's just me.)

The last front tire that provided me good tread life (i.e., similar to the rear) was the Michelin Road 4 which is pretty darn "blocky" with the sipes and lateral ribs.  Based on just a few tires, as the sipes have increased in size and become more circumferential, I've lost tread life.

If Dunlop gave me a set of Mutants, I would try them.

[36654]

Update on my RS4 Front experience.

After more than 1000-miles, I can report the new RS4 Front tire is free of the vibration/shimmy of the first tire. I asked my dealership shop about this and they said it happens sometimes with all tire brands. They do a significant tire business.

In any case, Dunlop tire prices fluctuate a few months and are currently available on Amazon for $150(F) and $200® or about $50 less (per tire) than the Michelin alternatives.

[Oldrider51]

I run Metzeler Roadtec 01SEs on my 2016 RS1200. The first set on the bike were Michelin Road 6 than lasted about 10000, then the first set on the Metzeler Roadtecs lasted above 9000 and were not worn out but the rear was flat in the middle. The Metzelers have given good mileage and have performed well in both wet and dry for me. Does any one else run Metzelers?

[Ray]

I run Metzeler Roadtec 01SEs on my 2016 RS1200.... The Metzelers have given good mileage and have performed well in both wet and dry for me. Does any one else run Metzelers?

Ran 4 or 5 sets of Metzler 01s with recommended standard front and heavy duty rear before discovering the newer technology of the Dunlop RS IVs, which last longer, don't flatten as much, stick a little better at full lean, and have a nicer sidewall compliance.... Have run 5 or 6 pairs of those, and have had some of the best riding of my life on them. (Tire technology, frame technology, suspension upgrades, electronic traction control, better training, etc. - Made it to 67 y, and hoping for more.)

Have fun.