Posts: 34
Threads: 4
Joined: May 2020
Reputation:
15
Location: East Yorkshire UK
Hi.
At last service on my 1250 new rear pads needed after only 6600 miles. My 1200 went 11000 before changing.
BUT had a ride yesterday with a friend, I led until lunch, he said brake light was coming on most of the time.
Felt caliper at coffee stop and nearly burnt my hand! Front callipers both cool.
Rode home keep g foot well away from pedal, brake cold.
Now sitting on bike it is clear that my boot is touching the brake nearly all the time, so should I move the lever down, difficult, or up to over my boot in the resting position?
Alan M
Posts: 616
Threads: 15
Joined: Sep 2019
Reputation:
191
Location: Saint Louis
05-09-2021, 06:02 PM
(This post was last modified: 05-09-2021, 06:04 PM by Ray.)
Huh.
Unless you're a toe-down rider, I'd say move the lever down.
If you're a toe-down rider, you can either retrain yourself, to (1) lower your heels (which was how I was first taught a gazillion years ago), (2) keep the balls of your feet on the pegs, or (3) keep your feet pointing out, so that the movement to the brake pedal is not unlike what you do with a brake pedal in an automobile. I've seen some riders keep the base of their big toe in contact with the lever, so they know where it is.
(Strikes me that riding barefoot might be a good training method.... Didn't MrVVRROOMM have a post or two on riding with one boot?)
That said, you've had a few years of riding - no problems with rear brake pads in years past? The other possibility is that the problem is with the upper half of the motorcycle. If your foot slaps when you walk, you might have the doc' make sure you haven't developed a drop foot or severe shortening in the achilles tendon.
"A good man always knows his limitations...."
Posts: 34
Threads: 4
Joined: May 2020
Reputation:
15
Location: East Yorkshire UK
05-10-2021, 12:18 AM
(This post was last modified: 05-10-2021, 12:22 AM by AlanM.)
Ray,
Thanks for advise.I have tried both ways and only down works.
The pedal cannot be raised enough to get clear of my boot(9) before it hits footrest casting.
So down as far as adjustment allows and a few miles to test. I will report in a couple of days
Alan
Posts: 3,031
Threads: 199
Joined: Feb 2014
Reputation:
341
Location: Houston, Texas, USA
(05-10-2021, 12:18 AM)AlanM Wrote: Ray,
Thanks for advise.I have tried both ways and only down works.
The pedal cannot be raised enough to get clear of my boot(9) before it hits footrest casting.
So down as far as adjustment allows and a few miles to test. I will report in a couple of days
Alan
I was looking at my bike's rear brake lever yesterday and I agree that down is the only realistic option. Also, moving the lever down is better from a safety standpoint since in an emergency situation your foot would already be in the right position to press, as opposed to pulling out and up before pressing, if your foot was resting below the lever.
The RS has a fairly sporty leg / foot position and maybe that is exacerbating the problem as the ankle may not be able to bend sufficiently acutely to avoid pressing the lever. Raising the seat would alleviate the problem, in addition to adjusting the lever down as mentioned.
Lastly, I think that the wrong type of boot (e.g. an ADV type boot with thicker soles) would make the situation worse. Best boots for sport bikes and sport tourers are those with thinner soles.
Regards,
Grumpy Goat
2016 BMW R1200RS
2023 Triumph Tiger 900 Rally Pro