2019 BMW S1000 XR

[runnerhiker]

I bought this bike three weeks ago and I really like it. Even though it appears the 2020 model will have some improvements, I was ready for one now and I got a good price on it.

First, it is not a replacement for my RS. It is a second bike for me. In 2015 when I bought my RS I test rode the RS and the XR back to back and the RS was a clear winner. The buzz of the engine on the XR has been fixed now, as part of my research into this bike, I rode a used 2017 XR with 14k miles on it and bar end weights installed. I was astounded how much smoother this used bike was compared to the test I took in 2015 when I bought my RS. The deal killer had been fixed!

I was looking for a 4 cyl bike that "grabbed me", something that I could connect with, something that my gut feeling could say "this is it". This XR is not a perfect bike, but it rang my bell.

The engine is outstanding, it is by far the most compelling feature of this bike. It has amazing power and torque. For me, it is THE reason to have this bike. The electronics, the controls, the features, are what we expect from BMW. My RS side bags and tail bags fit the XR. All I needed to do to the XR was add a Battery Tender directly to the battery.

Now it's time to comment on other things I like, the things I don't like, and some comparison to the RS.

The first line: great engine and lousy clutch. The clutch didn't keep me from getting the bike, but it really is lousy. It's hard to pull, the lever is a long reach from the grips, and that reach cannot be adjusted. It really is unpleasant. But the quick shifter is fantastic, really, really, fantastic. Very smooth upshift and downshift. On this bike, I use it ALL the time.

I have a handful of other negatives, but they are minor. Nothing compared to the clutch.

Negatives or things it does not do as well as the RS.
Chain drive, no TPMS, tall seat, long reach to the ground, top heavy around the gas station and the garage. Some engine heat on the left foot and ankle, a comfortable seat but shaped in such a way that it locks me in place (not much room to move). The racing info on the display is totally useless to me, I guess it just "comes" with the RR heritage. The gas mileage is about 10 MPG lower than the RS, the gas tank is 0.5 gal larger, but the range to a gas tank is about 30 miles fewer than the RS.

Some positives: It's easy to stand on the pegs and stretch the legs, the GPS is above the instrumentation, digital MPH and analog RPM but no TFT (wait for 2020 model). Electronic suspension, engine modes, ABS, and handlebar controls are like the RS. It's about 20 lbs lighter than the RS but as I mentioned above, it's tall and top heavy. It is very easy to put on the center stand and the side stand leans the bike over in a normal fashion.

The K1600GT is too big. The K1300GT is no longer made. The KTM SDR GT is a twin, not a four, and I traded in a naked SDR for this XR so I had my fill of that bike. The new Kawasaki Versys Grumpy wrote about in this section was appealing but I found it ugly, I could not "connect" with it. I did not want a naked bike.

Anything you would like me to expand on? Just ask.

[Grumpy Goat]

Ron - excellent review! Hit all the right notes - thank you. The clutch lever reach can be solved with some aftermarket levers so all is not lost on that score. I am heartened to hear that they fixed the handlebar buzz - something that should have never been an issue from the start. They lost many sales due to that f**kery - including from me, as I was all hot to get an XR when I had to nix that idea and got the RS instead.

With all the changes and points you raised, it would seem that the XR is again a possibility if ever I were to find the bucks to justify a second bike, and one of this cost. When I tested the 2016 model n 2015 I also found the saddle restrictive to movement and did not like that. To hear that has not changed is not surprising since there are folks who whould change the seat anyway.

The thing to note though, is that the XR is not a long distance tourer like the RS is. The seat locks one in place as noted above, and the engine rotational rate at cruising speed is too high for me, and that cannot change. You have the best combination for the kind of riding you do - sport touring and canyon carving, and for that you need these two bikes.

[Lee]

Even though it appears the 2020 model will have some improvements, I was ready for one now and I got a good price on it.

Thanks for the report Ron.
For some reason the 2020 R and XR did not get the same updates as the RR. Maybe in 2021??
It still surprises me the S series bikes have a cable actuated clutch and no TPM.

I did not like the clutch feel on the S1000RR and XR I have ridden.
Like you mentioned, the power and shift assist is great.

[Lee]

the engine rotational rate at cruising speed is too high for me, and that cannot change.

I don't think I would like a chain but they have 3 very good points.
You can change the gearing with a simple socket change.
Chain weighs less than a driveshaft.
A chain is more efficient at transferring power to the rear wheel.

[runnerhiker]

the engine rotational rate at cruising speed is too high for me, and that cannot change.

I don't think I would like a chain but they have 3 very good points.
You can change the gearing with a simple socket change.
Chain weighs less than a driveshaft.
A chain is more efficient at transferring power to the rear wheel.

I agree a shaft drive is better, but the difference has narrowed with the o-ring chains. The KTM I traded in had 7K miles and I never adjusted the chain, and the chain and sprockets were in excellent shape at that point. I spray can chain lube at about 500 mile intervals. Rear tire cleaning is about ten minutes using Simple Green and shop paper towels, the waxy lube from the spray can sticks to the chain and it doesn't fly all over other parts of the frame. Not as good as a shaft, but not bad. If I were to take a trip on this bike, I would carry a can of chain lube.

Once I get a seat I like, I would not hesitate to take this bike on any trip. I would not choose it over the RS, but if the RS were not available for any reason, I would mount the RS bags on the XR and go.

[Grumpy Goat]

I agree a shaft drive is better, but the difference has narrowed with the o-ring chains. The KTM I traded in had 7K miles and I never adjusted the chain, and the chain and sprockets were in excellent shape at that point. I spray can chain lube at about 500 mile intervals. Rear tire cleaning is about ten minutes using Simple Green and shop paper towels, the waxy lube from the spray can sticks to the chain and it doesn't fly all over other parts of the frame. Not as good as a shaft, but not bad. If I were to take a trip on this bike, I would carry a can of chain lube.

Once I get a seat I like, I would not hesitate to take this bike on any trip. I would not choose it over the RS, but if the RS were not available for any reason, I would mount the RS bags on the XR and go.

I am perfectly aligned with the above. I prefer a shaft drive but can live with a chain. As mentioned, the better power transfer efficiency of the chain does a heck of a lot to offest the convenience / low maintenance characteristic of the shaft. When I had a chain bike I found that chain maintenance was not an issue at all. But then I did not do long rides with it, either, where lubing would / should be done after each 500 mile day. I did appreciate having a stand (paddock but centre stand is even better) with a bike that has a chain though - makes a big difference towards actually doing the maintenance.

[Lee]

I agree a shaft drive is better, but the difference has narrowed with the o-ring chains.

I have a friend that is on his 2nd S1000RR and he mentioned he only needs to adjust the chain when it's near the end of it's life.
On his current RR he is going without lubing the chain. Last month in Kentucky I asked how the no lube experiment was going and he said the chain was within a couple thousand miles of it's expected life.
He likes to travel light


   

[Lee]

if the RS were not available for any reason, I would mount the RS bags on the XR and go.

Do the RS bags fit ok?
The inner half of the XR bags have a different shape but the attachment points look the same.

[Grumpy Goat]

I have a friend that is on his 2nd S1000RR and he mentioned he only needs to adjust the chain when it's near the end of it's life.
On his current RR he is going without lubing the chain. Last month in Kentucky I asked how the no lube experiment was going and he said the chain was within a couple thousand miles of it's expected life.
He likes to travel light

I suspect that some people get too obsessed with chain maintenance, but at the same time I believe that some maintenance is necessary. Your friend's experiment is an extreme that I probably not good for the chain, but if he is getting the expected life from it then that probably shows that there is significant design margin in the chain. When I had my chain bike I hardly ever cleaned and lubed it every 500 miles, but did it whenever I remembered and when it looked like it needed it, using a good quality waxy lube. That was probably every 1-2000 miles.

I have a friend who has 2 cruisers presently and he does little to no maintenance on them (largely because he doesn't know how and has not bothered to learn) including cleaning and greasing the chain. I suspect that over the many years he has had the bikes the chain may have not been cleaned or lubed and they are still running without failure. Maybe one fine day he will have to change the chain and sprockets all in one shot.

[Lee]

It's hard to tell if a chain needs lubed because the lube is is sealed behind the o-rings.

When a person cleans a chain they need to be careful not to use anything that will attack the rubber o-rings.

[Lee]

Here's a good video on chain care.
He mentions sound as a way to know if it needs lubed.

https://youtu.be/C_c_Wi1l3Fg

[runnerhiker]

if the RS were not available for any reason, I would mount the RS bags on the XR and go.

Do the RS bags fit ok?
The inner half of the XR bags have a different shape but the attachment points look the same.

They attach just fine, the bags wiggle a little bit. I'm guessing this wiggle can be fixed by adjusting the lower point mount with the two screws inside the bag. The bags are so perfectly adjusted for the RS right now that I don't want to make this adjustment unless I have to. They click on just right, and I don't see any kind of interference anywhere. They work.

[runnerhiker]

[quote='runnerhiker' pid='1397' dateline='1567751233']


I have a friend that is on his 2nd S1000RR and he mentioned he only needs to adjust the chain when it's near the end of it's life.
On his current RR he is going without lubing the chain. Last month in Kentucky I asked how the no lube experiment was going and he said the chain was within a couple thousand miles of it's expected life.
He likes to travel light

I have not gone as far as your friend, but close. I have had a sport touring shaft drive bike for the last 15 years. All my chain drives have been "second bikes" and have been ridden in fair weather, so the chains have not been subjected to foul weather. Nevertheless, my acceptance of chain drives continues to increase because bikes I want have chains! And I have found that chains are not fragile, they don't need tender loving care.

[sanemancured]

My issue with chain drive here in the UK is that with rock salt being put onto our roads with even a hint of colder weather chains end up being attacked and corroding, even with regular care. I am quite devoted to looking after the things, spending money on all sorts of expensive cans of cleaner and lube and cleaning/lubing regularly. It's a hassle and the chain ends up looking shoddy compared to the rest of the bike.

I have a feeling that this corrosion finds its way into the bearing surfaces and prematurely finishes the chain off too.

I recently put some molybdenum grease on my rear most shaft splines and all was good in the 'tunnel of love'.

Maybe I should move to SoCal?

Peter