(07-25-2020, 04:17 PM)Ray Wrote: Darrell - Maybe I've asked this before - do you aim for different pressures without the 40 - 60 pounds of luggage (which would be under 10% of total weight)? I still do this out of habit, but can't say I'm feeling the difference at speed.

Until about 10 years ago I used to change tire pressures based on the load I was carrying. This likely was a result of the bike manuals giving you different numbers to use based on load. There was a period of time when I would set tire pressures based on a 10% increase from cold to hot. Now I just set the RS at 38/42 and the GSA at 40/42 regardless what the load is, what roads I’m on, altitude, weather conditions, etc. At the BMW performance center course using a R1200GS they had the pressures set at 30/36 for both our paved road and off road portion of the course. I probably would not know the difference if my tires were 4 PSI low or high but checking my tires frequently forces me to inspect for any defects that may eventually cause some unplanned road time.

(07-25-2020, 05:04 PM)darrell Wrote: Until about 10 years ago I used to change tire pressures based on the load I was carrying. This likely was a result of the bike manuals giving you different numbers to use based on load. There was a period of time when I would set tire pressures based on a 10% increase from cold to hot. Now I just set the RS at 38/42

Yep, BMW used to call for different tire pressures based on load.
The 10% rule was when we ran bias ply tires. I don't know if this still applies with radial tires.

The important thing is to use a method that works for you and check your tire pressure every day or every other day on trips using a gauge or TPM and to check for things stuck in your tire.

I usually need to remind Deb to check the TPM reading. That whole instrument panel thing doesn't interest her. Gas gauge, TPM, speedometer, oil level, doesn't matter, she travels with a servant to keep track of minor issues.

(07-25-2020, 05:04 PM)darrell Wrote:

(07-25-2020, 04:17 PM)Ray Wrote: Darrell - Maybe I've asked this before - do you aim for different pressures without the 40 - 60 pounds of luggage (which would be under 10% of total weight)? I still do this out of habit, but can't say I'm feeling the difference at speed.

Until about 10 years ago I used to change tire pressures based on the load I was carrying. This likely was a result of the bike manuals giving you different numbers to use based on load. There was a period of time when I would set tire pressures based on a 10% increase from cold to hot. Now I just set the RS at 38/42 and the GSA at 40/42 regardless what the load is, what roads I’m on, altitude, weather conditions, etc. At the BMW performance center course using a R1200GS they had the pressures set at 30/36 for both our paved road and off road portion of the course. I probably would not know the difference if my tires were 4 PSI low or high but checking my tires frequently forces me to inspect for any defects that may eventually cause some unplanned road time.

Doesn't your RS manual call for 36/42psi (2.5/2.9 BAR)?

Doesn't your RS manual call for 36/42psi (2.5/2.9 BAR)?
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It does exactly call for 36/42. I’ve spoke at length with Dunlop engineering, sales and marketing people plus asked my master mechanic knowing he has experience with other riders and with my experience after several pairs of tires on the RS and based on their input and my experience the 38/42 psi has worked for me with usually the front tire ready to change about 500 miles before the rear reaches the TWI markers. I’m sure many riders push their tires 1000 or 1500 miles further than I do before I put new ones on. I never leave on a longer ride needing to change tires on the road so sometimes change with 1500 miles left on a set of tires.

We run 38 in our front tires to lessen cupping.
Since the introduction of dual compound tires we usually get some cupping on the front tire.

(07-26-2020, 06:41 AM)Lee Wrote: We run 38 in our front tires to lessen cupping.
Since the introduction of dual compound tires we usually get some cupping on the front tire.

Honestly, I've been using 38 for several years, but no longer remember why.
It's on a piece of note paper in the map sleeve of my tank bag.....

Sounds like I have to switch to 38 psi at the front too ... I like the idea of reduced cupping.

(07-26-2020, 11:26 AM)Grumpy Goat Wrote: Sounds like I have to switch to 38 psi at the front too ... I like the idea of reduced cupping.

Less front brake use greatly reduces cupping....

(07-26-2020, 11:39 AM)MrVvrroomm Wrote: Less front brake use greatly reduces cupping....

Hahaha ... well I guess I will have to live with it to some degree. I love using front brakes.

(07-26-2020, 11:39 AM)MrVvrroomm Wrote:

(07-26-2020, 11:26 AM)Grumpy Goat Wrote: Sounds like I have to switch to 38 psi at the front too ... I like the idea of reduced cupping.

Less front brake use greatly reduces cupping....

So, Harley's never experience cupping?

(07-26-2020, 11:39 AM)MrVvrroomm Wrote:

(07-26-2020, 11:26 AM)Grumpy Goat Wrote: Sounds like I have to switch to 38 psi at the front too ... I like the idea of reduced cupping.

Less front brake use greatly reduces cupping....

On twisty roads I engine brake mostly.
If I have to brake hard on a straight road, cupping is the least of my worries

(07-26-2020, 12:01 PM)36654 Wrote: So, Harley's never experience cupping?

Not generally

Perhaps a point was missed. If you use your front brake (you should) your front tire will cup.

(07-26-2020, 02:52 PM)MrVvrroomm Wrote: Perhaps a point was missed. If you use your front brake (you should) your front tire will cup.

(07-26-2020, 03:08 PM)Lee Wrote:

(07-26-2020, 02:52 PM)MrVvrroomm Wrote: Perhaps a point was missed. If you use your front brake (you should) your front tire will cup.

So, habits are hard to kill........

Having gone thru safety instructor training, I struggle to remember the rear brake. For years, the front was my primary and the rear was a far, far distant afterthought. But, now I need to lead by example, so I consciously have to remember to move my foot and press. Just be good so the cruiser guys get some improved braking performance.

Of course, with the electronic "jake brake" on the R12RS, I often rarely need the brakes or clutch.........just slam the throttle shut. It's a thing of beauty going downhill.

I could remove rear brake pedal on any of my bikes and sell it as new. I never use rear brake by depressing pedal.

(07-26-2020, 04:13 PM)36654 Wrote: Of course, with the electronic "jake brake" on the R12RS, I often rarely need the brakes or clutch.........just slam the throttle shut. It's a thing of beauty going downhill.

It's great coming down a mountain pass.

I get plenty of cupping up front - especially with the Roadtec 01s - but it does not seem to correlate directly with a decrease in performance. I don't really care what the visible portion of the front tire looks like. I only care about how the contact patch looks to road surface.



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(07-26-2020, 04:29 PM)MrVvrroomm Wrote: I could remove rear brake pedal on any of my bikes and sell it as new. I never use rear brake by depressing pedal.

(Not even when pulling that long, slow wheelie?)

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(07-26-2020, 04:29 PM)MrVvrroomm Wrote: I could remove rear brake pedal on any of my bikes and sell it as new. I never use rear brake by depressing pedal.

Same here ...