Parking Lamp Bulb Installation | H7 Connector Upgrade

[Grumpy Goat]

Warning icon since Helen is gone!

[Lee]

Do you have a link for the new connector?
When I have changed a main bulb I don't remember seeing a connection that lets me remove the plastic connector from the wire harness. How far back is it?

[Grumpy Goat]

Do you have a link for the new connector?
When I have changed a main bulb I don't remember seeing a connection that lets me remove the plastic connector from the wire harness. How far back is it?

Whoops .... I forgot to include it in the Description of the video. It is there now as well as below.

Clipsandfasteners Inc Universal Headlight Harness Connector For H7 Bulb

Looking at the BMW repair part, the connector is probably about 7" downstream of the connector, which would mean that you'd probably have to take the headlamp assembly apart to get to it. In the video (did you watch it? ) I did not need to find the connector to let you remove the H7 connector. I simply connected to the connector leads.

[Lee]

Yes I watched it, but it was not clear where the leads were.
I watched a couple parts several times trying to figure it out.

I'll take a better look the next time I change a bulb.

[Grumpy Goat]

Yes I watched it, but it was not clear where the leads were.
I watched a couple parts several times trying to figure it out.

I'll take a better look the next time I change a bulb.

The existing H7 connector crumbles after some time, so all one has to do is complete the destruction of the plastic bit so that all is left are the two wires with the female spade connector ends that went directly onto the bulb. Then you just simply attach a new connector with male spade connector ends to the newly exposed female connectors and you have a quick connect/disconnect H7 connector.

[Lee]

so that all is left are the two wires with the female spade connector ends that went directly onto the bulb. Then you just simply attach a new connector with male spade connector ends to the newly exposed female connectors

I see now. I didn't realize you used the female connectors inside the old plastic piece.

[Grumpy Goat]

I see now. I didn't realize you used the female connectors inside the old plastic piece.

Killed 2 birds with one stone. Made a replaceable connector and did not have to disassemble the headlight assembly to do it.

[darrell]

Stopped by my dealer today to install another set of Dunlop RS III tires and a minor service before leaving on another trip this weekend. Last week when at the dealer I mentioned the clutch micro switch which allows one to pull in the clutch when in gear was not working so bike had to be in neutral to start. As well mentioned the plastic holding the 2 female spade connectors on the low beam side had fallen apart. Service manager ordered both parts and today they installed the new dual micro switches (clutch and cruise control) as well as the repair plug 2-pin kit BMW sells for just this purpose. The repair plug kit includes the plug end, short wiring and 2 posi-taps. Both these parts are right from BMW. Both the micro switches and repair plug kit and one hour of labor was billed to the Extended Warranty company.

Set of dual micro switches BMW part number 32728537609 - $86.76
Repair plug 2-pin BMW part number 83300444440 - $38.79
1 Hour Labor - $119.00

After the service was completed I discussed with the service manager anything I should be considering with the bike getting up in mileage. He mentioned at some point might want to think about suspension system but until I experience a real need ride with what you have. He also brought up the fact they are beginning to replace drive shafts and rear ends on some R1200RT water cooled models due to failure but they have no experience with the RS model as none have that mileage on them. Said he thought the extended warranty would cover this area if it failed so could just ride until or if it did fail or consider doing a preventative replacement at my expense. I'll take a chance it will last another bunch of miles. In 5 - 6 weeks I'll be in for another service and tire change so service advisor and I can discuss more at that time.

[Lee]

He also brought up the fact they are beginning to replace drive shafts and rear ends on some R1200RT water cooled models due to failure but they have no experience with the RS model as none have that mileage on them.

That's interesting, I have not heard of any final drive problems on the Wetheads.
Seen a few rusty driveshafts where water got past the rubber boot.

[darrell]

He also brought up the fact they are beginning to replace drive shafts and rear ends on some R1200RT water cooled models due to failure but they have no experience with the RS model as none have that mileage on them.

That's interesting, I have not heard of any final drive problems on the Wetheads.
Seen a few rusty driveshafts where water got past the rubber boot.

He said nearly all these were happening in the 90,000 mile plus range. I'm guessing few bikes ever get that many miles in 10 plus years of ownership by any owner before either traded or they keep and they never get there. In all my riding the current 2002 GSA in my garage is the only one that has ever passed 100,000 miles.

[Lee]

He said nearly all these were happening in the 90,000 mile plus range. I'm guessing few bikes ever get that many miles in 10 plus years of ownership by any owner before either traded or they keep and they never get there. In all my riding the current 2002 GSA in my garage is the only one that has ever passed 100,000 miles.

I'll keep my ears open on this since we tend to keep most of our bikes a long time.
Four of our bikes were traded with close to 90,000 miles.

[Grumpy Goat]

He said nearly all these were happening in the 90,000 mile plus range. I'm guessing few bikes ever get that many miles in 10 plus years of ownership by any owner before either traded or they keep and they never get there. In all my riding the current 2002 GSA in my garage is the only one that has ever passed 100,000 miles.

At this point I intend to keep my RS until it quits, which I hope is not for a long time. I would certainly like it to exceed 100k. I know that your bike is not ridden hard and is well maintained at the dealer, so it is a good indicator of the robustness of the model.

So far it seems that the low beam connectors are a weak part but at a relatively low cost (for the non-BMW part) that can be seen as wear and tear. Hopefully the micro-switches are not a widespread issue.

[Lee]

The bulb connector appears to be the same as the one used on our last couple bikes.
Wonder why this one is falling apart after only 4 years.
The heat should be the same as other sealed H7 bulbs.
Different supplier?

[Grumpy Goat]

The bulb connector appears to be the same as the one used on our last couple bikes.
Wonder why this one is falling apart after only 4 years.
The heat should be the same as other sealed H7 bulbs.
Different supplier?

I agree, Lee. The heat should be the same and the fact that both Darrell's and my bike had the same failure pretty much at the same time but with vastly different mileages make the problem even more strange.

The only difference I could think is that Darrell uses stock H7 bulbs (I believe) while I have been using Silvania Silverstars of one flavour or another for some time now. Maybe there is a difference in the current draw and heat output seen at the connector. So even if you take my bike out of the equation that leaves your bikes and Darrell's. So it must be a different manufacturer and when you look online there are several to choose from with different prices so who knows what supplier BMW got.

[darrell]

[quote='Lee' pid='1052' dateline='1562163336']

The only difference I could think is that Darrell uses stock H7 bulbs (I believe) while I have been using Silvania Silverstars of one flavour or another for some time now. Maybe there is a difference in the current draw and heat output seen at the connector.

Yes i use the stock H7 bulbs rated for 270 hours I purchase for about $10 at any auto parts store. i tried one of the brighter bulbs and it last maybe 120 hours so figured not worth the money. I have the Clearwater lights with yellow lens set at 30% so hopefully others see me. I've not rode the bike since new at night so don't need the lights for ability to see the road.

[darrell]

Wayne, sometime you should pull that dust cover off the low bean when you get home from a longer ride and see how hot the plastic around the connector feels. And then on another similar temp day when it is dry out leave the dust cover off and do the same thing checking if you can tell the temp difference. If cooler it could indicate there is a heat build up in the enclosed area with the dust cover on.

[Grumpy Goat]

Wayne, sometime you should pull that dust cover off the low bean when you get home from a longer ride and see how hot the plastic around the connector feels. And then on another similar temp day when it is dry out leave the dust cover off and do the same thing checking if you can tell the temp difference. If cooler it could indicate there is a heat build up in the enclosed area with the dust cover on.

Good idea. I hope I remember. I am off for the rest of the week so there is a chance of a ride somewhere, depending on the weather. I tell you - places like Helen have spoiled going for rides in these parts for me. Hot, often humid and flat / boring. Makes day tripping not that good.

[Lee]

The only difference I could think is that Darrell uses stock H7 bulbs (I believe) while I have been using Silvania Silverstars of one flavour or another for some time now. Maybe there is a difference in the current draw and heat output seen at the connector.

As Darrell mentioned the brighter bulbs have a shorter life.
I had always guessed the shorter bulb life was caused by more heat.

[Lee]

So even if you take my bike out of the equation that leaves your bikes and Darrell's.

No problem so far on ours but I plan to watch for the problem when changing a bulb.
The last bulb replaced was April on Deb's bike in Texas.

[Lee]

Wayne, sometime you should pull that dust cover off the low bean when you get home from a longer ride and see how hot the plastic around the connector feels. And then on another similar temp day when it is dry out leave the dust cover off and do the same thing checking if you can tell the temp difference. If cooler it could indicate there is a heat build up in the enclosed area with the dust cover on.

It's going to be hot with the cover in place but the connector should be made to handle it.
The headlight needs to be sealed to keep moisture and dust off the lens and reflector.