Speed Bleeders for the RS

[Grumpy Goat]

Just bought a set of these plus some thread locker (which is not the same as Loctite thread locker!). Guess what service job is next on my radar!

Funnily enough, all three have different diameters according to Speedbleeder.com:

Front: SB8125L right / SB6100 left
Rear: SB1010S

With the GS-911 I should have this done in no time and hopefully will get similar feel to the S1000R. Right now the difference between the two is too great, with the RS brake lever feel being too soft with too much travel.

[MrVvrroomm]

Speedbleeders rock!

[Grumpy Goat]

Speedbleeders rock!

Based on the videos I watched I believe it.

[Olgry1]

Speedbleeders makes the job of bleeding brakes fun!!

[Grumpy Goat]

Speedbleeders makes the job of bleeding brakes fun!!

I can see me bleeding my brakes annually.

[Lee]

Instead of changing the bleeder screws on both bikes I bought a inline Motion Pro speed bleeder. I used it last time and like it better than using the MityVac brake bleeder.


   

[Duccrazydave]

I'm interested to see if your situation improves with a bleed. I'm going to end up replacing my pads pretty soon. When I checked out my existing pads (Brembo), they have HH stamped on them. Guess I'll use the same compound on the replacements. BTW, I got rid of my Mighty Vac after I picked this up. Even at HF quality & price it works great! https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-flui...92924.html

[Grumpy Goat]

Instead of changing the bleeder screws on both bikes I bought a inline Motion Pro speed bleeder. I used it last time and like it better than using the MityVac brake bleeder.

Heh! Wish I had known about this before buying my speed bleeders - cheaper.

https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0143

[Grumpy Goat]

I'm interested to see if your situation improves with a bleed. I'm going to end up replacing my pads pretty soon. When I checked out my existing pads (Brembo), they have HH stamped on them. Guess I'll use the same compound on the replacements. BTW, I got rid of my Mighty Vac after I picked this up. Even at HF quality & price it works great! https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-flui...92924.html

I am pretty sure that the lever will harden and be more like the S1000R.

I have an unused MityVac type brake bleeder kit which will most likely remain unused.

Last time I checked the pads I still had lots of material on them (wearout is 1 mm) so the Carbon Lorraine pads I got over a year ago will have to wait for a while -- especially now I have another bike to help with the riding duties.

[Grumpy Goat]

[Olgry1]

Nice videos. Are you going to do a follow up video on the brake bleeding process with the speed bleeders? A trick I learned from my old BMW motorcycle mechanic was to use a very thin (tooth pick size) rolled up paper towel piece to insert into the end of the brake nipple. Doing so then absorbs any residual brake fluid left in the nipple. I would typically have to do that a few times before the paper towel pieces would come out dry. By doing that you can then monitor the nipple in the future for any brake fluid found in the nipple and if found tighten the speed bleeder a small amount to correct the minor leak.
FYI I never had to replace the thread sealant on the speed bleeders even though I would bleed the brakes once or twice a year on the various bikes with speed bleeders.

When reattaching front fairings I would usually forget to connect the electric turn signal connection.

[Grumpy Goat]

Nice videos. Are you going to do a follow up video on the brake bleeding process with the speed bleeders? A trick I learned from my old BMW motorcycle mechanic was to use a very thin (tooth pick size) rolled up paper towel piece to insert into the end of the brake nipple. Doing so then absorbs any residual brake fluid left in the nipple. I would typically have to do that a few times before the paper towel pieces would come out dry. By doing that you can then monitor the nipple in the future for any brake fluid found in the nipple and if found tighten the speed bleeder a small amount to correct the minor leak.
FYI I never had to replace the thread sealant on the speed bleeders even though I would bleed the brakes once or twice a year on the various bikes with speed bleeders.

When reattaching front fairings I would usually forget to connect the electric turn signal connection.

Hehehe ... so far I have not forgotten to reconnect the turn signals.

The video of the brake flush is scheduled to drop this Sunday at 2:00 AM. I think that I need to space out the videos to give each a chance to get some individual exposure.

Good tip on the checking inside the nipples to see if there are any tell-tale signs of leakage due to under-tightening.

In response to the video I got a comment suggesting that the Stahlbus brake bleeder nipples remove the need for thread sealant since they are in 2 pieces with one piece being threaded into the caliper and the nipple portion screws into it, and sealed with an O-ring. Looks like a nice product but their catalogue does not show different sizes for the front brakes, which one would have to clarify before buying from them. Also, each Stahlbus nipple costs around $30, whereas my whole Speed Bleeder set + thread sealant costs a little over $35 delivered.

[Grumpy Goat]

Nice videos.  Are you going to do a follow up video on the brake bleeding process with the speed bleeders?  ...

Even though our dear friend John is no longer on this earth, I will answer his question as he'll surely hear it from on high.

The video I will be doing is the replacement of the left caliper "screw plug with ventilation" and then the reinstallation of the original BMW valves on all 3 calipers.

Today I went to do a flush of by brake fluid as part of the 60k mile service (and since the fluid had <3% moisture content). I was conscious of how frail these Speed Bleeders were so I was prepared (or so I thought). Got everything ready and set up to loosen the Speed Bleeders (even had the 3 different size box wrenches attached to the SBs). I started with the left front and pushed a good reservoir-full of fluid out after slacking off 1/4 turn. When I re-tightened the LF SB - put it back to the same angle that I started from when I loosened it - it simply sheared off. I did not overtighten it. It must have been heat-fatigued since installation (during which I did not shear it off, mind). 

   

I considered using my extractor, but the SB was so tiny that the bit that was suitable contacted the ball first and did not want to risk pushing the ball into the caliper! I understand Speed Bleeder (the company) has an "extraction service" where you have to send the caliper to them! What *^(*&$ drama! I topped back up the reservoir and aborted the system flush. At least I can still ride the bike. 

I decided to fire the lot of them - no more "plastic" Speed Bleeders for me. I ordered the screw plug with ventilation and when that comes, I will revert back to stock.

I ordered the Motion Pro inline speed bleeder Lee uses.

[dravnx]

A single speed bleeder installed inline with a bit of hose works the same as the motion pro speed blleeder. I happen to have a spare speed bleeder from a previous project and fitted it with a couple of pieces of hose and clamps.

[Grumpy Goat]

A single speed bleeder installed inline with a bit of hose works the same as the motion pro speed blleeder. I happen to have a spare speed bleeder from a previous project and fitted it with a couple of pieces of hose and clamps.

The RS requires 3 different sizes of Speed Bleeders.

[Duccrazydave]

Thanks for the update, Wayne.

[TriangleRider]

A single speed bleeder installed inline with a bit of hose works the same as the motion pro speed blleeder. I happen to have a spare speed bleeder from a previous project and fitted it with a couple of pieces of hose and clamps.

The RS requires 3 different sizes of Speed Bleeders.

I think what he is saying is that you could use one of your old speed bleeders just like you would the motion pro.  Just attach some hose to each end.

[Grumpy Goat]

I think what he is saying is that you could use one of your old speed bleeders just like you would the motion pro.  Just attach some hose to each end.

Ahhh ... now that I re-read it, makes perfect sense. Thanks dravnx. Already bought the Motion Pro solution, though.

[mspratz]

Hey Grumpy, did you have the regular steel speed bleeders or the stainless versions? I'm guessing by the part numbers you quoted in your original post they were not the stainless steel variety. I just bought the stainless ones (and SpeedBleeder's special thread sealant) for my my RS, but haven't installed them yet. Given your recent experience I'm wishing I hadn't ordered the bleeders. I already have the Motion Pro solution, but have found it doesn't work for vacuum bleeding because air leaks in around the threads, despite my attempts to seal the threads with plumbers thread tape.
Now I'm thinking maybe I'll just use their special thread sealant to seal the threads of the standard bleed valves, and use the Motion Pro and my MityVac.

[mspratz]

Grumpy, looking at the picture you posted of the sheared speedbleeder on your RS. I wonder if you could pull that ball out of there with a magnet, and then get a screw extractor in there to get the broken bleeder out? I think the ball must only be held in place by the spring that is poking out of the other bit (in your hand in the photo), so the ball should just come right out. Just a thought; I could be totally wrong.