The engagement point of the clutch on my 2023 RS was waaaay out there.  I have medium-sized hands, but even with the 4-position star at the closest position, the friction zone was out near my fingertips -- very hard to modulate.

I removed the clutch lever and found that the plunger that pushes the master cylinder piston is threaded into a bushing, and held by a set screw.  The plunger took a bit of a yank to pull out of its rubber boot, but it popped free without issue.

   
   

Note that the set screw is held by a lot of red thread locker.  It requires a commensurate amount of care in removing, or the small Torx will strip out (T15, if memory serves; maybe T10).  In theory, a bit of heat might help, but there's a change of damaging the pivoting lever insert's material.  I avoided heat by using multiple very slow loosen/reverse cycles until the set screw was finally free.

Note also that both my clutch and brake lever set screws were chock-full of red thread locker.  This material must be *thoroughly* scraped out (a challenge, given how small the tiny Torx hole is) to have a prayer of getting the Torx bit sufficiently engaged with the hole to not cam or strip out. 

   

Lastly, however much the plunger depth is adjusted before retightening the set screw, the plunger cannot be adjusted too far:  when the clutch lever is released, the two micro switches at the end of the lever moment (fully out position) must be reliably triggered.

(11-22-2023, 07:55 PM)MHN-RS Wrote: The engagement point of the clutch on my 2023 RS was waaaay out there. ....

Note that the set screw is held by a lot of red thread locker.  It requires a commensurate amount of care in removing, or the small Torx will strip out (T15, if memory serves; maybe T10).  In theory, a bit of heat might help, but there's a change of damaging the pivoting lever insert's material.  I avoided heat by using multiple very slow loosen/reverse cycles until the set screw was finally free.

Note also that both my clutch and brake lever set screws were chock-full of red thread locker.  This material must be *thoroughly* scraped out (a challenge, given how small the tiny Torx hole is) to have a prayer of getting the Torx bit sufficiently engaged with the hole to not cam or strip out. 

Well done.

Good that the threads on the set screws were 2023ish vintage. (Is that an April 2022 manufacture date stamped into the lever?)

My experience has been that the red threadlocker carries strength through the years better than most metal treads. Not sure I would try this on an older bike without a little heat to try to soften things up. (My favorite line - "Don't ask how I know.").

(Which reminds me to ask, as you did the nuclear engineer thing - how about using that "really 'weird' heat source you mentioned on red Loctite? Sounds like an experiment waiting to happen....)

(11-24-2023, 10:04 PM)Ray Wrote: (Which reminds me to ask, as you did the nuclear engineer thing - how about using that "really 'weird' heat source you mentioned on red Loctite? Sounds like an experiment waiting to happen....)

I was thinking the same thing. Brush with steel bristles would probably work better though.

(11-24-2023, 10:04 PM)Ray Wrote: Well done.

Good that the threads on the set screws were 2023ish vintage. (Is that an April 2022 manufacture date stamped into the lever?)

My experience has been that the red threadlocker carries strength through the years better than most metal treads. Not sure I would try this on an older bike without a little heat to try to soften things up. (My favorite line - "Don't ask how I know.").

(Which reminds me to ask, as you did the nuclear engineer thing - how about using that "really 'weird' heat source you mentioned on red Loctite? Sounds like an experiment waiting to happen....)

Lol!  Interesting idea -- I'll go rummage in the garage and see what I have in leftover parts

The bike has a 12/22 build date, so any month before that is possible.  I cannot tell where they start counting around the circle.