The engagement point of the clutch on my 2023 RS was waaaay out there. I have medium-sized hands, but even with the 4-position star at the closest position, the friction zone was out near my fingertips -- very hard to modulate.
I removed the clutch lever and found that the plunger that pushes the master cylinder piston is threaded into a bushing, and held by a set screw. The plunger took a bit of a yank to pull out of its rubber boot, but it popped free without issue.
Note that the set screw is held by a lot of red thread locker. It requires a commensurate amount of care in removing, or the small Torx will strip out (T15, if memory serves; maybe T10). In theory, a bit of heat might help, but there's a change of damaging the pivoting lever insert's material. I avoided heat by using multiple very slow loosen/reverse cycles until the set screw was finally free.
Note also that both my clutch and brake lever set screws were chock-full of red thread locker. This material must be *thoroughly* scraped out (a challenge, given how small the tiny Torx hole is) to have a prayer of getting the Torx bit sufficiently engaged with the hole to not cam or strip out.
Lastly, however much the plunger depth is adjusted before retightening the set screw, the plunger cannot be adjusted too far: when the clutch lever is released, the two micro switches at the end of the lever moment (fully out position) must be reliably triggered.
I removed the clutch lever and found that the plunger that pushes the master cylinder piston is threaded into a bushing, and held by a set screw. The plunger took a bit of a yank to pull out of its rubber boot, but it popped free without issue.
Note that the set screw is held by a lot of red thread locker. It requires a commensurate amount of care in removing, or the small Torx will strip out (T15, if memory serves; maybe T10). In theory, a bit of heat might help, but there's a change of damaging the pivoting lever insert's material. I avoided heat by using multiple very slow loosen/reverse cycles until the set screw was finally free.
Note also that both my clutch and brake lever set screws were chock-full of red thread locker. This material must be *thoroughly* scraped out (a challenge, given how small the tiny Torx hole is) to have a prayer of getting the Torx bit sufficiently engaged with the hole to not cam or strip out.
Lastly, however much the plunger depth is adjusted before retightening the set screw, the plunger cannot be adjusted too far: when the clutch lever is released, the two micro switches at the end of the lever moment (fully out position) must be reliably triggered.
Brush with steel bristles would probably work better though.