Lee, I tried to get the rebate on the RS4's (purchased from a Dunlop Pro dealer) and while they are listed on the online form I got the no rebate for this tire message. I haven't tried calling customer service yet so maybe they can be convinced...

Completed the invoice upload and rebate process this morning. Hopefully everything goes well with that. Just one other thing to say about the No Mar. If you want to feel like a pro installer, just keep a set of Michelin Road 5’s around. Super flexible carcass and sidewalls :-)

(10-10-2020, 02:50 PM)Duccrazydave Wrote: Just one other thing to say about the No Mar. If you want to feel like a pro installer, just keep a set of Michelin Road 5’s around. Super flexible carcass and sidewalls :-)

That is certainly good to know. All I know is that the RS3 and the RS4GT that I tried were not flexible like that and I had to give up.

(10-10-2020, 03:24 PM)Grumpy Goat Wrote:

(10-10-2020, 02:50 PM)Duccrazydave Wrote: Just one other thing to say about the No Mar. If you want to feel like a pro installer, just keep a set of Michelin Road 5’s around. Super flexible carcass and sidewalls :-)

That is certainly good to know. All I know is that the RS3 and the RS4GT that I tried were not flexible like that and I had to give up.

For a REAL workout, try changing the tires on a new Gold Wing. There is NO give in the sidewalls of the available tires on that bike. I suppose to deal with the "road hugging" weight. All Michelins seem to have very flexible sidewalls.

Frank

Tires at 10,000 miles. I’m going to stop over to see Bruce later today or tomorrow and get his thoughts how many more miles he feels I can safely get out of these tires.[attachment=899][attachment=900][attachment=901][attachment=902]

Are there tread wear indicator in the rear tire? I can't see any on the center of the tire. They look good for 10000 miles, you certainly have not over extended them yet.

(10-12-2020, 11:52 AM)runnerhiker Wrote: Are there tread wear indicator in the rear tire? I can't see any on the center of the tire. They look good for 10000 miles, you certainly have not over extended them yet.

In the next to last picture it looks like it's down to two wear bars.
The wear bars look smaller than normal if I'm looking at the right thing.

I placed the pen point what I am using as the wear indicators. The center most tear drop sipe is closest to the center and that is nearing 1/32 and the one further out I indicated is 2 - 2.5/32 so not at the wear bar yet. [attachment=903][attachment=904]

(10-12-2020, 11:38 AM)darrell Wrote: Tires at 10,000 miles.

In the top picture the tire has a lot more cupping than when I looked at it in Colorado.

(10-12-2020, 12:48 PM)darrell Wrote: I placed the pen point what I am using as the wear indicators. The center most tear drop sipe is closest to the center and that is nearing 1/32

You'll have less than 1/32" at the center of the tire.
I would replace it now because it's thin and replace the front now because of the cupping.
Good to see you don't get down to cords before the teardrops disappear.

(10-12-2020, 12:49 PM)Lee Wrote:

(10-12-2020, 11:38 AM)darrell Wrote: Tires at 10,000 miles.

In the top picture the tire has a lot more cupping than when I looked at it in Colorado.

It has been 3500 miles since you saw them in Colorado so probably that makes some difference.

This is the 15th set of tires on the RS (always change both at the same time) and the first set where the rear wears out before the front. I still have the original front brake pads at 117,000 miles and will install the 3rd set of rear pads when I installed the new set of RS IV in the near future.

My new set of RS IV arrived today. Dunlop shared with me the tread depth on the rear tires should be between 8.5 - 9.0/32. When I measured the set today they are in fact closer to 9.0 then the 8.0 when I measured the set I have on the bike so I’m using 8.5/32 as the starting point.

My IV’s are ready for a fresh life of abuse :-)
These will carry me all the way to Ohio, next year


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Nice!

(10-13-2020, 11:10 AM)Duccrazydave Wrote: My IV’s are ready for a fresh life of abuse :-)
These will carry me all the way to Ohio, next year

The aura of new rubber. Nice photo.

Enjoy a couple of NRTs (new rubber turns) for me and I'll pay you back when I can.

So you don't think the IVs will be worn out in 7 months? Or do you plan to show up with sufficient wear, so you don't embarrass the rest of us too much?

(10-13-2020, 03:36 PM)Ray Wrote:

(10-13-2020, 11:10 AM)Duccrazydave Wrote: My IV’s are ready for a fresh life of abuse :-)
These will carry me all the way to Ohio, next year

The aura of new rubber. Nice photo.

Enjoy a couple of NRTs (new rubber turns) for me and I'll pay you back when I can.

So you don't think the IVs will be worn out in 7 months? Or do you plan to show up with sufficient wear, so you don't embarrass the rest of us too much?

Oh, that's a good one. I have a much better chance of embarrassing myself
If I get as many opportunities for afternoon blasts as I've had so far, this year, the Dunlop's may be slightly broken in by May.

quote
My IV’s are ready for a fresh life of abuse :-)
These will carry me all the way to Ohio, next year


Dave, did you mount the RS IVs yourself on the Nomar? I have a Nomar mounted in my basement. I agree with you on the Road Vs being easy to remove and install. I had my Road V GTs (required on my RT) installed at my dealer because they are supposed to have a stiffer sidewall than the standard Road 5s.

I have had difficulty mounting the RS III and other tires with the stiff sidewalls. Between Terry and myself we were able to mount tires on his BMW 1600GT and my RTs. Since then I have not been able to mount the same tires by myself. My question is do you mount the tires by yourself? If so do you use a ratchet strap to hold the tire in place?

Thanks for any thoughts.

This has been my experience, John. The Roadsmart 3 & 4, both have similar mounting challenges, but still typical of a heavier carcass sport touring tire. The first priority is making sure the Cam & Dog blocks are dry and free from any prior lube or spray and indexed correctly so that it takes some force when locking the Cam block. This gives the best chance of the wheel not rotating during the process.
I have used straps before. But only to keep the wheel in place when breaking a stubborn bead (as I mentioned about my brother’s ZX14).
When removing the tire, I use a generous amount of spray lube and also spray the demounting tip. The XtraHand clamps are very useful at keeping the bead closer to the drop center. I use 2 of those.
When mounting I use the paste lube exactly like No Mar suggests. Any rubber to rim contact point that’s dry can ramp up the effort quickly. This means I’ve been successful in pushing on the first bead every 17” tire I’ve installed. Obviously the second bead is where the challenge starts. This is also where the tools in the pic come into play. The Yellow Thing bead keeper is the first step at keeping the bead close to drop center. I continue, clockwise, pushing down the bead as far around as possible before inserting the mount tips. Holding the tire with one hand and the bar in the other, while pushing the bar with my hip gets a little further around. Since the carcass is stiff, the beads keep wanting to migrate to their final resting place-the rim seat. Which is not where you want them. This is where I’ll resort to the rim protectors and tire irons to finish the job. If the tire is really determined to make me regret my DIY choice, I break out the HD zip ties and make the beads come together to, again, keep them close to the drop center and give the best chance for success. Rather wordy, but I hope this helps you in some way



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Just right wordiness, Dave! Very clear explanation and short of a video is probably the best explanation I have seen. I have not given up on mine and will try it again the next tire change I need to do. Thanks for sharing this.

Thanks Dave I really appreciate it !! Your thorough explanation was perfect.

While I have regularly wiped off the dog blocks I never thought about thoroughly cleaned them.

I like the idea to spray lube on the demounting tip.

Often I have gotten close to mounting the tires but never thought about using tire irons to finish the job.

Again thank you Dave