My mods

[AZGeek]

Appearance? I prefer to see these as performance enhancements:

2017 Lupin Blue with my mods:
   
   
Michelin Road 5 tires
OEM Engine Guards
Custom painted OEM side cases
Remus Hexacone Exhaust can
Clearwater Erica Auxiliary LED lights
Clearwater Billy Brake rear LED lamp bar
Cyclops 4.8 Platinum LED bulbs (high and low beams)
Cyclops T10 LED parking lights
Dynamic Motorrad LED Turn Signal inserts
MaMo Light Bar (for the Ericas)
MaMo MudSling R/RS
MaMo AvantGuard
Bacaruda Mounting bracket for Givi top case
Vortex GPS Mount
Hornig Handlebar Risers
Dual USB port on front dash
Givi Tanklock tank bag mounting system
Barkbuster Storm hand guards
MRA X-Creen windscreen
VStream Touring windscreen (bottom picture)

[JWMcDonald]

Sam:

How recently have you installed the Cyclops 4.8 Platinum bulbs ?

The reason I ask is that about 2 years ago I got a pair of OPT7 bulbs, and am currently running just one, in high beam. When I installed both OPT7 in both high and low beam, they went crazy, flashing on and off and setting off the dash light fail indication.

Returning the low beam to the stock H7 bulb cured the flashing issue.

But now have a "yellow" low beam (stock H7) in contrast to the nice white high beam (OPT7).

I've lived with the situation, but would like to confirm your experience before I pop for a pair of the Cyclops bulb...:-)

[AZGeek]

How recently have you installed the Cyclops 4.8 Platinum bulbs ?

I've had the Cyclops bulbs on the bike for 6 months (2,000 miles) with zero problems (hoping that doesn't jinx me now). The RS bulb housing covers won't fit with the Cyclops installed so I got some rubber covers off eBay that seem to work to keep dust and water from getting into the housing.

I really enjoy riding this bike at night, especially when I can flick on the high beam and really light up the road.

[Grumpy Goat]

I've had the Cyclops bulbs on the bike for 6 months (2,000 miles) with zero problems (hoping that doesn't jinx me now). The RS bulb housing covers won't fit with the Cyclops installed so I got some rubber covers off eBay that seem to work to keep dust and water from getting into the housing.

I really enjoy riding this bike at night, especially when I can flick on the high beam and really light up the road.

I too am interested in the Cyclops H7 LED bulbs and was indeed wondering about the fitment in way of the covers. Looks like the model is the one for the GS/GSA, i.e. CIL-LED-H7-GS.

Here are some on eBay ... were the ones you got similar? I take it you had make a hole in the back of the cover for the wires to pass through.

Also, the Cyclops pictures show a DIN-type connector without the rectifier, which they say is not needed for DC powered lights (like ours) - did yours come with some sort of adapter to make 2 flat blades mimicing the prongs on the back of an H7 bulb?

   

[AZGeek]

I too am interested in the Cyclops H7 LED bulbs and was indeed wondering about the fitment in way of the covers. Looks like the model is the one for the GS/GSA, i.e. CIL-LED-H7-GS.

Also, the Cyclops pictures show a DIN-type connector without the rectifier, which they say is not needed for DC powered lights (like ours) - did yours come with some sort of adapter to make 2 flat blades mimicing the prongs on the back of an H7 bulb?

Grumpy Goat -

Yep, that is the model I bought for my RS. There is a mounting plate that attaches with bulb clips on the RS, then the Cyclops bulb securely twists into their plate. Install was a breeze once you figure out the you detach the mounting bracket from the bulb assembly to clip that in place first, then pop the bulb into that.

You definitely need the “resistor” portion of the wiring, and this is what connects to the RS plug.

   

I will try to take some pics over the weekend of how the wiring looks after the install.

[Grumpy Goat]

Grumpy Goat -

Yep, that is the model I bought for my RS. There is a mounting plate that attaches with bulb clips on the RS, then the Cyclops bulb securely twists into their plate. Install was a breeze once you figure out the you detach the mounting bracket from the bulb assembly to clip that in place first, then pop the bulb into that.

You definitely need the “resistor” portion of the wiring, and this is what connects to the RS plug.

I will try to take some pics over the weekend of how the wiring looks after the install.

Looking forward to those pictures.

So in the picture you show in our post - that "box" is needed, and that is not the "rectifier" that they say is not needed for DC wired bikes, correct?

So many of these websites have wrong / misleading information and is pretty irritating.

I take it the Cyclops bulb assembly does not come with instructions pointing to the need to first remove the mounting bracket from the rear of the headlight housing ...?

What about the rubber boot I linked to ... is that what you bought?

[AZGeek]

I take it the Cyclops bulb assembly does not come with instructions pointing to the need to first remove the mounting bracket from the rear of the headlight housing ...?

What about the rubber boot I linked to ... is that what you bought?

Most likely a user error on my part regarding the Cyclops instructions. I don’t remember a specific picture for that part of the instruction but once I figured it out it was very obvious what needed to be done. Again, most likely a problem with the user and not the instructions.

Regarding the rubber dust seals, I hedged by bet and bought these:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pc-Universal-R...3d55c40ea0

I cut to the exact diameter needed. I will confirm when I take pics of the install, but I think I used the 75mm diameter portion.

[Grumpy Goat]

Thanks Sam. Looking forward to the pics.

[AZGeek]

Here are the pics for how I did my installation of the Cyclops 4.8 Platinum LED bulb. Left side (high beam) pictured but the same install was done for the right side (low beam).

https://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/4..._p_86.html

   

First, remove the OEM halogen H7 bulb and keep the connector well outside of the bulb housing.
   

Then remove the collar from the Cyclops bulb assembly and attach it to the RS housing using the clips (used to secure the OEM halogen bulb):
   

I used a universal rubber dust cap because I wasn't sure of the diameter needed. Turns out it should be 70 mm (i.d.), so you can just get that specific size if you want. Or, you can use what I used and removed the excess material: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pc-Universal-R...3d55c40ea0

I did a simple cross cut in the center of the rubber dust seal to make an exit point for the wires/connectors coming from the LED bulb.
   

Route both ends of the resistor module through the dust seal, then attach the RS connector (female) to the Cyclops resistor module plug (male) and then the 4-pin cable connector from the Cyclops LED bulb to the other end of the Cyclops resistor module.
   

Last pic is in a separate post below. (Don't know why there is a limit to how may images can be attached to a post, but evidently that number is 5).

[AZGeek]

And the finished install with the dust seal in place. I looped the resistor module around the metallic-looking bracket to keep it out of harm's way.

   

[Grumpy Goat]

This is great Sam. Thanks.

So how does it perform - any glare to oncoming drivers? Much brighter than stock? Good pattern? Maybe a picture on a dark road might be possible ...?

[AZGeek]

This is great Sam. Thanks.

Thanks. Yes, noticeably brighter than stock but not amazingly so. The pattern is almost identical to the stock bulbs from what I recall. Remember, I am also running Clearwater Erica auxiliary lights and the infrequent "complaints" I get from other drivers is from those lights and not the Cyclops replacement headlamps. Did an early morning ride this morning and was reminded how much nicer it is to ride with enough light to see far enough ahead when at speed.

[Grumpy Goat]

Thanks. Yes, noticeably brighter than stock but not amazingly so. The pattern is almost identical to the stock bulbs from what I recall. Remember, I am also running Clearwater Erica auxiliary lights and the infrequent "complaints" I get from other drivers is from those lights and not the Cyclops replacement headlamps. Did an early morning ride this morning and was reminded how much nicer it is to ride with enough light to see far enough ahead when at speed.

Thanks for that feedback.

While the "... not amazingly so" bit is tempering my enthusiasm a bit, the better colour temperature match with the auxiliary lights is still a strong reason for my leaning toward changing over.

Also, longevity of the bulbs is another concern, although I don't recall seeing any testimonials suggesting that the LEDs won't burn out. just theory that they should last much longer. Well I have been using Sylvania Silverstar [Ultras] in the hopes of getting whiter and brighter lights but at about $20 each or more and me going through at least 2 or more per year (low beam only), it seems like I am throwing money down the drawing while not being fully satisfied.

[JWMcDonald]

I've taken the plunge and just received a pair of the Cyclops 4.8 Platinum and resistors , after calling and talking to one of the sales people.

There are a couple of issues wit the OPT7 that I hope to cure.

One that I had previously mentioned has to do with installing both Hi & Lo beam OPT7 - apparently the CanBus didn't like them both, and would go into a frenzied flashing on/off mode. Just the single Hi beam (without Lo) eliminated the flashing.

However, on warm (over 70 degrees F) with just the Hi beam OPT7 and stock H7 Lo beam, I get intermittent flash of the Error Lamp (10 to 20 minute interval - and throws code on my GS-911) - nothing that causes any interruption of the light output - just the Error flash.

I plan to effect the swap in the next week or so, and hope to have positive anecdotal evidence to pass on.

[Grumpy Goat]

Excellent. I hope it works out well for you and look forward to reading your account. The LED upgrade is essentially on my 2019 list and I will of course be making a video to pass along our experiences, but I want to be sure of success before starting.

[JWMcDonald]

I've taken the plunge and just received a pair of the Cyclops 4.8 Platinum and resistors , after calling and talking to one of the sales people.

There are a couple of issues wit the OPT7 that I hope to cure.

One that I had previously mentioned has to do with installing both Hi & Lo beam OPT7 - apparently the CanBus didn't like them both, and would go into a frenzied flashing on/off mode. Just the single Hi beam (without Lo) eliminated the flashing.

However, on warm (over 70 degrees F) with just the Hi beam OPT7 and stock H7 Lo beam, I get intermittent flash of the Error Lamp (10 to 20 minute interval - and throws code on my GS-911) - nothing that causes any interruption of the light output - just the Error flash.

I plan to effect the swap in the next week or so, and hope to have positive anecdotal evidence to pass on.

UPDATE

Cyclops bulbs installed for both Hi and Lo beam.

Have not installed resistors yet - initial garage test had both working without the "flashing" issue I experienced with the OPT7.

Against the garage wall, Lo beam has a clear cutoff, while Hi beam has a full spread downrange.

Next step is to connect GS-911, clear any codes, and set a baseline, then test ride.

[Grumpy Goat]

UPDATE

Cyclops bulbs installed for both Hi and Lo beam.

Have not installed resistors yet - initial garage test had both working without the "flashing" issue I experienced with the OPT7.

Against the garage wall, Lo beam has a clear cutoff, while Hi beam has a full spread downrange.

Next step is to connect GS-911, clear any codes, and set a baseline, then test ride.

This is good news. Keep us updated.

[JWMcDonald]

UPDATE

Cyclops bulbs installed for both Hi and Lo beam.

Have not installed resistors yet - initial garage test had both working without the "flashing" issue I experienced with the OPT7.

Against the garage wall, Lo beam has a clear cutoff, while Hi beam has a full spread downrange.

Next step is to connect GS-911, clear any codes, and set a baseline, then test ride.

This is good news. Keep us updated.

UPDATE / UPDATE

Set baseline with GS-911 and had successful daytime test ride with no "flashing".

No codes thrown during the ride.

I am holding on to the resistors for seeing what happens in the next 1-2 weeks of normal riding. The guy at Cyclops did indicate that I could return the resistors if they are not needed, and also wanted confirmation of my experience for 2016 R1200RS so that they had addition to their knowledge / experience base.

As far as I am concerned, don't wait - just order 'em, GOG...

I plan on a "dark" ride this evening to see what the illumination is at night.

[JWMcDonald]

UPDATE

Cyclops bulbs installed for both Hi and Lo beam.

Have not installed resistors yet - initial garage test had both working without the "flashing" issue I experienced with the OPT7.

Against the garage wall, Lo beam has a clear cutoff, while Hi beam has a full spread downrange.

Next step is to connect GS-911, clear any codes, and set a baseline, then test ride.

This is good news. Keep us updated.

UPDATE / UPDATE

Set baseline with GS-911 and had successful daytime test ride with no "flashing".

No codes thrown during the ride.

I am holding on to the resistors for seeing what happens in the next 1-2 weeks of normal riding. The guy at Cyclops did indicate that I could return the resistors if they are not needed, and also wanted confirmation of my experience for 2016 R1200RS so that they had addition to their knowledge / experience base.

As far as I am concerned, don't wait - just order 'em, GOG...

I plan on a "dark" ride this evening to see what the illumination is at night.

UPDATE / UPDATE / UPDATE

Night ride test complete - definite improvement over prior setup.

As I said - just order 'em, you will not be disappointed...

[Grumpy Goat]

Sounds like a call to action now.

I take it that these are the ones ...? 4.8 Platinum H7 LED Headlight Bulb CIL-LED-H7