(05-06-2019, 11:15 AM)Grumpy Goat Wrote: that is why I want to cross check with the other dealership.
When I checked with the Iowa City shop their estimate was slightly more. I think 1.9 to 2 hours labor and the same $25 for fork oil.
Your cost still sounds high unless the shop rate is $150 per hour.
The Kansas City rate was $98 per hour and at the time Iowa City was about the same.
Lee
Iowa, USA
2022 R1250RS White Sport
Past BMWs: 2016 R1200RS x 2, 2011 K1300S x 2, 2003 K1200RS x 2, 1991 K75S x 2, 1987 K75T x 2, 1984 R100RT
(05-06-2019, 11:45 AM)Lee Wrote: When I checked with the Iowa City shop their estimate was slightly more. I think 1.9 to 2 hours labor and the same $25 for fork oil.
Your cost still sounds high unless the shop rate is $150 per hour.
The Kansas City rate was $98 per hour and at the time Iowa City was about the same.
I believe their rate is $120/hour. The oil was expensive (maybe $25+ per side), and I believe it must have gold flecks in it ...
Regards,
Grumpy Goat 2016 BMW R1200RS 2023 Triumph Tiger 900 Rally Pro
(05-06-2019, 11:48 AM)Grumpy Goat Wrote: The oil was expensive (maybe $25+ per side), and I believe it must have gold flecks in it ...
On the first bike they charged me $25 per fork leg.
When I returned the next day with the 2nd bike they told me they had made a mistake and the correct charge is $25 total for the job.
Lee
Iowa, USA
2022 R1250RS White Sport
Past BMWs: 2016 R1200RS x 2, 2011 K1300S x 2, 2003 K1200RS x 2, 1991 K75S x 2, 1987 K75T x 2, 1984 R100RT
(05-06-2019, 11:15 AM)Grumpy Goat Wrote: I wondered about that slight firming up, but overfilled or not I like it.
If it feels better leave it alone.
I can remember trying different oil volume on our early K bikes to get a different feel.
I used to like working on my bike's suspension by adjust everything from fork oil level/viscosity, to spring preload, sag settings, hi and low speed compression and rebound dampening, etc. Some of my favorite magazine articles, back in the day, were all about adjusting the suspension according to what the bike was doing in various situations.
Now I just use the wonder wheel and presto changeo the suspension is set
01-21-2026, 11:30 AM (This post was last modified: 04-16-2026, 08:03 AM by maxredline.
Edit Reason: Info added and update
)
Old thread revived!
Looks like a new fork seals are the next job for me.
DYI
Fork oil change vid that exposes the seals oil change videl
SKF seal numbers KITX-46Z for ESA fork
KITG-45M for standard fork
Update, I ordered the seals from The Beemer shop. Their site noted the KITX-46Z but the package shipped was listed as KITB-Z46.
The seals fit up fine. I did order the black seals over the green option. Maybe the KITB stands for KIT(Black) with the Z46
being the important fitment number.
If I can't get the parts at a decent price here in Canada I am going to price check Europe.
About 2 years ago everything started to have a duty tax on it from the US.
04-14-2026, 10:12 AM (This post was last modified: 04-16-2026, 08:05 AM by maxredline.
Edit Reason: update
)
The seal job is not too difficult especally when you don't remove the dampening rod but there are a few challanges.
I have the forks removed, dissassembled down to the dampening rods and drained of oil. The first challange was removing the ESA wire from its attachment on the left side of the steering head frame. There is a space to put a pick into the bottom of the connector to release the catch but you have to be a contortionist. I managed to pull off the attachment for the connector. Why do engineers make something so simple so difficult? Putting this attachment back onto the frame is just a push barb type thing. Its amazing I did not destroy it. I may disarm the plastic connector catch feature by cutting the latch feature out and use a zap strap arrangement.
To compress the forks I used the 3 way clamp with cam buckle tie down staps. Cheap, works well enough.
The next challange was removing the seals. I used heat from a propane torch to warm things up for both seals. A chisel was used for the dust seal and a slotted screw driver and a washer/bolt tool clamlped into a vise was used to remove the oil seal. Hooking the washer onto the back side of the oil seal while holding some pressure on the seal give the fork tube a good smack with a a hammer and wood softener does the trick. I probably took 10 or so smacks to get the seal off. I had to reheat the tube as it cooled. I would not try removing the seals without the heat.
Update, I know this is a not brainer, rebuild one fork at a time. I did use one container for each fork but I still managed to get confused and missed a washer on one frork. Yes I had to remove the seal on the one fork but I didn't mangle it. I will find out soon enough if it does leak...I'm a dumb ass sometimes.
I have not checked the price of BMW type 2 fork oil. I have a feeling it will be steep. I think I will end up with a quality 10w.
Update, I found BMW type 2 fork oil price to be on par with some of the aftermarket oils. I bought the BMW type 2 which is recommended of course.
